Climbed the SW Gully route with Dan Butler. Cut our stay short at summit due to threatening clouds. Would not want to be up there on wet rock or wet moss.
Good route beta on web page. The lone tree towards the right side of SW gully photo is a good reference. (As are the knobby rocks at the skyline)
There's more good beta on Mountain Project web page for Wolf Rock.
We headed up late to watch the sunset. Slept on the grassy-ish flat spot kind of in the middle of the ridge. No moon in a clear sky equates to a very milky way. Stayed up late in our bevies watching the stars. Great night. The flat spot is roughly big enough for 4 people to sleep comfortably.
A perfect day to leave the fogged in valley for a scramble up this awesome rock. Weather was perfect, as was the company.
We found the culvert pipe and followed the trail up to the lone tree on the slope. Then up just right of the gully and traversed over the ridge to the true summit. Although it's not a technical climb, respect and placement of hands/feet is key as almost all of the rock is sketchy and loose. We descended the gully proper and it was much more enjoyable.
Find the gully and use it for the ascent/descent. It makes this climb a lot funner (and safer).
We headed out with little hope of getting into the rock, thinking we were going to be stopped short due to snow. However the first drift that stopped us was only a mile or so from the base. Unfortunately I forgot Brian's route description at home so we tried to do it by memory. That translates to this, we found the drain pipe then went up and down would be routes looking for some stinking tree that we traverse something at, then walk the summit ridge South or was it North to the true summit. Either way after much yo-yoing we found our way to the top and had a great summit.
By the way, when I returned home I read my printout of Brian's description, and it was perfect! I wish I had it with me. I do want to add that one of our turn around routes was that bad "class 4" mossy gully noted in the description. I'll see that and raise you "class 5" and not worth it. If it were rock alone sure, But as it gets up there the moss is ridiculous. I usually don't get myself in stupid situations but this was one of them. Stay away from that gully.
The first trip we made we went way to far north and climbed almost to the top but ran into some tall walls and decided to turn around after pondering life.
Came back on 7/10 had no problem, though not used to as much exposure still a fairly easy climb, took about 1.5 hours to reach false summit, realizing we couldn't cross over to the true summit went down and crossed over on the ridge which spills steeply into the amphitheater.
Log still in excellent shape though I almost lost the first entry due to wind.
Climbing down we took another route following cairns which was nice going, lots of rock less grass and loose dirt.
Dan F. / Daryl G.
Found some sweet sport climbs in the Great Arch. Following day climbed the SW chute. Went up the mossy, slightly scetchy chute left of intended chute. Beautiful day! A bit hot but an early start helped alot. Descended the actual SW chute on way down. More rock and much more enjoyable. Would have been nice to go up!
I have probably climbed Wolf Rock nine or ten times at least, all by various scramble routes out of the amphitheater and the west side gully route.
climbed the normal "dog route up" left some tuna and crackers for Tyler and Jim who were on Bara-Dur
We bushwacked strait from the drain pipe and headed up the first gully we saw thinking it was the southwest gully route. It was a fun 3rd class scramble with decent exposure, but it only took us to a sub summit with no reasonable way to reach the true summit. I will return sometime to find the real route.
The info for the basic route on Brian's page is dead on (thanks Brian). I followed the climbers trail to the end, which brings you right to the gullies. I found that following the water-marked trough right up the middle was quite nice, with somewhat decent rock. Some lichen and loose stuff here and there, but otherwsie not bad. Class 3, a staircase.
I came from the north side of FS road 15 (from hwy 20), and there's a turnout (dead-end road) just before the climber's trail. The turnout is on the left with Wolf on the right.
For those caught on top without water, you'll find several gallon jugs of water. The summit register mentioned the water was left this year... so probably not too stale.
It's a fun scramble with great views of the Oregon Cascades.
Came to Wolf Rock with friends in 2002 to do the Coligula Route but the looseness and unprotectability scared us off. So we drove to the north side in my Jeep trying to find those routes. Scratched my Jeep up driving into branches on what is barely a road. Lost my sunglasses on the bushwhack in. I was literally standing two feet from my friends and could not see them in the thick brush. Once we got to the rock, it was all mossy and licheny and looked like it hadn't been climbed in years.
So, back to the south side to try to find the easy way up and could not. Left dejected.
Came back this past weekend determined to find the way up. Got on the same damn route as before and retreated quickly. Headed further west on the road and then up to the mossy slab gully. Knowing I had to go further west, I went around a corner and then saw what looked like 3rd class rock up. Halfway up and already committed, it seemed to become exposed Class 4. Kept going and tried not to think about the exposure. It was easy climbing but a fall would have been bad. Finally got up to the ridge and then looked over to see I had gone one gully too short. Took the ridge the rest of the way up and then traversed the ridge to the summit. Found the ammo can and signed the register. Looks like the original register is in there (along with a geocache) and it has a log from 1967, 30 days after I was born.
On the way down I found the easier gully and had no problem getting down although I think I went further right than I was supposed to. It looked like nice 3rd class rock instead of mossy, loose slopey grass so I opted for that way. Up in two hours and down in about 1.5.