Woman of Mountain Dreams, 5.11a

11th Pitch- 160’- 5.8R/ This pitch is only 5.8 if you run it out over a ledge. If you want to haul larger cams up the route (another C4# 3, 4 and 5), this pitch could become the second hardest challenge of the day and offer some decent crack climbing. With the rack suggested, you are forced to bypass the obvious corner/roof above and traverse right out onto the dirty moss covered face. These initial moves are more like 5.7, but on suspect rock. Turn left under the loose blocks above and pop up to beneath yet another crack corner. I had the gear to climb this corner and pull the chossy roof above, but this climbing was closer to 5.10. The FAers suggest climbing the face out left but with little to any pro to avoid a fall onto the ledge below. This can be one of the more unnerving pitches of the day due to the run-out options on moss weakened rock. After the small roof, follow a chossy crack to a small ledge next to a solid pine tree for the belay.
Woman of Mountain Dreams, 5.11a, 16 Pitches, Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson, Red Rock NCA, Nevada, April, 2013


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