Page Type
Oregon, United States, North America
Route Type:
Glacier Crossing, Steep Snow and Ice
Time Required:
A long day

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Created On: Feb 10, 2003
Last Edited On: Aug 6, 2004


Start at Timberline Mountain Lodge. The first 1,000 foot of this climb is the same as the Hogsback. Climb up the Palmer Snowfield to the first ski hut. From here, cut over to the right on the far side of the wand path and find the large ridgeline ascending towards the eastern flank of the mountain. Continue along this ridgeline all the way up until you hit your first steep col. This is the start of the technical portion of the climb.

Route Description

The lower portion of the route moves up gradually steepening snow or alpine ice to 50 degrees. Once you are on top of the Steel Cliff, the route hugs the ridgeline between the Steel Cliff and Devil's Kitchen. We encountered some ice crusting over rock that we fell into, as well as some easy mixed climbing. There are several steep traverses to access the upper part of the ridge. The traverses, including one move where you have to downclimb about 10 feet, were very tricky.

When you finally get to the top of the ridgeline right along the eastern edge of the Devil's Kitchen, you are rewarded with a view of the summit mass. From here you can see the crux of the route, 2 steep gullies of approximately 50 to 55 degree slope and another exposed traverse. See photo #1.

Once you've obtained the top of the second gully, the only thing left is an easy walk over the ridgeline to the true summit.

Expect 6 to 8 hours to get to the summit, if you can do the Hogsback in 4 to 5 hours.

Essential Gear

Crampons, 2 ice tools, rope, harness, helmet, pickets, ice screws, and prussics for the glacier crossing in late spring or summer.


This route has a lot of exposure, and is not recommended for beginners. It is a good winter and early spring route.


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