Summited May 2020 via Flying Buttress. Full trip report with Wy'east beta
We had nice solid styrofoam snow.
I suppose on a normal snow year, I wouldn't be calling the conditions perfect...in mid-June, but this year we seem to be about 6-weeks behind. It's definitely mid-April in June this year.
Four of us left Timberline Saturday morning at 12:30am, hit the summit at 7:00am, descended the Old Chute (Mt Hood Hwy) and got back to the car by 9:00am. It stayed well below freezing for the ascent, which made for very safe conditions. I can see how this route could be treacherous if above freezing...
The cool part for me was to stand at the top of Devil's Headwall, looking at the conga line heading up the south side...great perspective.
We used a rope from White River glacier...mainly because it was dark and we were navigating around crevasses, to the summit, although because the conditions were soooo good, we probably didn't have to. A couple of running belay’s came in handy too up, across, and over a couple of steep parts.