is a short winter alpine climbing route in the northern face of Begunjscica
mountain at Karavanke
. This route is very popular in winter due to its difficult grade, short approach and easy descent. Therefore expect to have other climbers in the route.
Upper part of Zeleniška grapa ravine
NW ridge of Begunjščica where Zeleniška grapa ravine goes...
The starting point for Zeleniska smer
route is Ljubelj pass
(1.367 mtrs) at the Karavanke
chain, situated some 11 kilometers north of Tržic
town. At Ljubelj pass
you will find ski lift for Zelenica
, which you can use if it is open or you just follow ski piste towards Dom na Zelenici
mountain hut. You will need about 1:30 hrs from parking lot.
From the Dom na Zelenici
hut you go strait up over the Zgornji plaz
towards Centralna grapa
ravine and before you enter the ravine you turn right to the end of snowfield below the NW cliffs/ridge of Begunjscica
route is the 5th ravine (in the corner) right of big ravine Centralna grapa
, which is used for descending.
1st part of the ravine
Detail from 1st jump
First part of the route is not so difficult - some 40°/50°. Gradually the route becomes more steeper and if the conditions are good there should be no problems. Difficult parts (2 jumps) you will find at the lower half of the route. 1st jump is easier/smaller - about 70°, UIAA 2/3, 3 mtrs of rock, while 2nd is much harder - about 4 mtrs high chimney, UIAA 4. Usually both jumps are covered with thin ice and some snow, but still you will need to apply some dry-tooling technique.
After this you have to climb beautiful and steep ravine till the exit on NW ridge. Once you are on the ridge, first you have to descend (on the other side) a little and then climb back up on the ridge again. Follow the ridge till the Begunjscica
Additional comment: when there is lack of snow you may have another easier 'jump' at the very entrance of ravine.
Best way to descent back to Zelenica
valley and Ljubelj pass
is via Centralna grapa
ravine, which starts right below the summit.
More info for this ravine you can find on Osrednja grapa (Centralna grapa) ravine
Stol/Hochstuhl (2.263 mtrs) from NW ridge of Begunjščica
From the ravine itself you can not see much, only interesting Na Možeh
ridge above Dom na Zelenici
Once you exit the ravine, on top of final ridge, beautiful view opens on the other side towards Begunjscica
summit, nearby Stol
mountain and mighty Triglav
far in the distance.
Good mountaineering shoes, helmet, technical ice axes, crampons and rope. Also, depending on conditions, ice screws and few pegs can be very useful.
Along the left side of ravine, before and above 2nd & 3rd jump, you can find old pegs in the rock, which are still good for protection and belay.
This is winter ascent, so always check for local weather & avalanche reports!!
Here you can read avalanche reports, but unfortunately only on Slovenian language:
Avalanche report for Slovenia
Local weather forecast is on:
...on the NW ridge of Begunjščica mountain