Approach
This page will be edited soon...
This climb runs up the Main Wall, past a snag visible from the road and grocery store at the mountain's base. Best approach is to park at the lower parking lot and follow marked trails to the main wall. Generally follow the most well-worn trail uphill and right at teh junctions.You are looking for a right-facing corner directly below a large silver snag. Sometimes the trails are hard unmarked, but if you keep hiking up to the main wall's base, it's hard to miss.
Route Description
This is one of the best and most popular routes at Erie, and climbs a major line among many other good climbs. There are many opportunities for variations on every pitch. Most do this route in three pitches. Pitch one - right facing corner for 35' then runout over slabs rightward to belay anchors. Second Pitch - Up slabs then follows rightward trending crack system. Go up when possible and lieback a small bulge/roof (crux, good pro) to the second belay anchors at a large horizontal growing cedar tree. Third Pitch - Angle up and left through dirty low-fifth class to anchors, or proceed rightward onto the limb of the cedar tree (Springboard Variation), and climb an obvious crack system, clipping an early-Beckey-era piton while you are at it. This variation goes at 5.8+ with exposure.
Rapping zig zag:
From the top of the route, if you have one 60m rope, do this:
One rap to the snag ledge(top of P.2)
One Rap to the big tall dead tree(rappeler's right)
One rap to the ground, barely makes it.
Essential Gear
Bring pro to 2.5 inches. Large nuts, small TriCams, and hexes work well, along with a few of your favorite SLCDs.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Scott Dusek - Apr 24, 2006 4:30 pm - Hasn't voted
zig-zag rappelI think you said most of what you need to say but it's confusing the way you worded it. It takes a minimum of two rappels to get down from the top of zig zag. A 60m rope will not reach from the top of the second pitch to the chain anchors at the top of the first pitch. Rappel to the snag, then rappel of the madrone tree either to the chain anchors at the top of the first pitch, or to the bottom (I think a 60m rope will make it to the ground).
Blakester - May 16, 2006 5:35 am - Hasn't voted
Rapping zig zagFrom the top of the route, if you have one 60m rope, do this: One rap to the snag ledge(top of P.2) One Rap to the big tall dead tree(rappeler's right) One rap to the ground, barely makes it.