What an amazing climb! It was very cold but the conditions were very good on the arete. Easily my favourite route I have done in the Valais.
Great tour and panorama from the top ; good weather in the early morning , thunderstorm on way back to the hutte at late morning.
climbed it with hard wind and fog. no view at the summit :-(
After our windy ascent of the Hörnligrat of the Matterhorn I and Kurt headed to Zinal and to Mountet Hut North from Zinal Rothorn. The ridge is spectacular and consists of good quality rock. There were bolts in most exposed places so it is worthwhile taking a few draws with you.
Photos coming soon to www.samulimansikka.com
Climb it from teh Rothornhut and back to there, great climb!
Normal route (lower SE-, then SW-ridge) in near-optimum condition. We left Rothorn hut half an hour before the crowds but managed to loose track above the "Wasserloch" (...) so we enjoyed the traffic jam below Biner slab like the rest of the world. The slab itself was dry but the pitch above wasn't.
We climbed in two pairs, so rapelling with four persons took some time but we managed to have a snack at the Trift hotel and arrive in town during dawn. Very nice route with amazing views (for instance down to Mountet).
As this was planned as a 2-day-action from home and weather remained continously fine one of the two pairs decided to run another mountain trip on the way home. Whereas the Zinalrothorn starting from scratch made no problems regarding altitude, day #3 at the simple 3000m-peak Fleckistock became quite hard...
"We reached - I had almost said the top; but the Rothorn has no top. It has a place where a top manifestly ought to have been, but the work had been left unfinished. It ended in a flat circular area a few feet broad, as though it had been a perfect cone, with the apex cleanly struck off", wrote Leslie Stephen in his book "Playground of Europe" when Zinal Rothorn was climbed the first time in 1864. And I can not but agree after reaching this small, high, windy and beautiful place over the South-East ridge starting from the Rothorn hut. An exiting route containing both walking narrow snow ridges and climbing good rock. (August 9, 1999).
Thomas had some business to do in Zermatt, to Wolfi and I joined him to climb the Zinalrothorn. Without any acclimatisation we were pretty tired at the end of the summit day
See my trip report and pictures here:
Lots and lots of snow -- in the coulier, on the ridge, everywhere. But not difficult. Exposed traverse near the summit (small ledge with 250m+ sheer vertical drop) the most fun I've had all month.
Climbed with Thuri and Kristine, a Swiss couple I met at the Rothorn hut the day before. I was considering a solo of the normal route, but after dinner, we decided to team up for the Rothorngrat. We left the hut late (5AM), since the weather had been quite bad the day before and we were unsure if we would find the ridge dry and in good condition. After reaching the Schneegrat, the ridge appeared to be fairly dry, so we decided to have a go at it. It took quite a long time, since the ridge is VERY long and we were climbing as a group of three. When we reached the junction with the normal route, we decided to descend, since it was already late and the descent couloir was very snowy. The descent was the hardest part of the climb, with lots of deep, loose snow. We made it back to the Rothorn hut at 7PM and then I continued all the way back to Zermatt (5000 ft descent in 2.5 hrs), making for an 18 hour day.
Weather very warm. Soft snow. Cleared before we got to summit. Great views.
Heavy snow this summer kept the mountain closed until the day before we climbed it. The normally clear rock ridges wore huge cornices making this one of the most nerve racking mornings of my life. I climbed with a Brit I met the night before in the hut, he insisted on climbing the ridge unroped, "if one of us falls, he'll just pull the other off". Many people died on the route in the following weeks. Clear day made for great photos, but we couldn't stay at the top for too long as the mountain was melting. A party of austrians fell from the ridge and we had to lower a rope to get them back up. Super climb!
Definitely one of my favorite climbs/peaks of all time! A fast moving and early start avoided the crowds and staying climbers left of the coulior put us on fun rock at sunrise as well as helped us avoid rockfall on the descent. We did find the upper rock frosted over which made things a bit harry...but we stood alone on the summit for 20min. taking in the incredible views.
We started ( Gilbert, Luc and myself ) later than the other rope-parties . By the ascent on the ridge we countered all the others and so we where all alone on the summit. It was a great sunny day and so we stayed for over an hour on the summit with magnificient views of the whole area!
I climbed Zinalrothorn free soloing.
This was the second part of what my new friends, whom I got to know in my "basecamp" on the great camping ground in Randa-Attermenzen during my 4 weeks, which I stayed there, called my "Trilogy". Originally, it was not planned at all. It just happened: the solo climbs of Matterhorn, Zinalrothorn and Weisshorn.
There was some rockfall in the couloir.
Some days before, a german climber got killed in this couloir due to rockfall.
Besides me, about 50 other people climbed Zinalrothorn on this day. Therefore I did not really feel, as if I climbed it free soloing.
We tried the Kanzelgrat, but my partner get's sick, so we have to abort our attempt. It was one of some more relapses of that summer ...
Crowdy, but a great view at the summit. Start early to be the first to avoid waiting on the more difficult parts of the route.
Very nice route with nice rock without problems for
Good fun, but snow conditions in the colouir get pretty bad if you leave your descent for too late in the day.