Zoo Wall, 5.6-5.12a

Overview/Approach

The Narrows offers the most aesthetic climbing destination in the Wichita Wildlife Reserve.  It is formed by Cache Creek and is a popular destination for climbers and hikers alike.  Even in late summer, there are plenty of watering holes.  As the name implies, its steep walls over a narrow corridor offer the best climbing shade in the reserve.  Elk are abundant in this area and we were surround by bugling bulls in late September.

Zoo Wall offers up the largest collection of moderates in the Narrows.  It is a northeast facing wall on the right side of Cache Creek.  Crazy Alice, 5.8****, is considered one of the finer leads at its grade in the reserve.  No Stone Unturned, 5.9****, offers one of the more unique moderate roof pulls in the park.  Dihedral, 5.6****, offers one of the better leads in the reserve for a new trad leader.  Dr. Coolhead, 5.10dRX****, is one of the finer 5.10 sport climbs in the park, albeit not protected enough for most leaders at the grade.  Despite Coolhead’s shortcoming, this is the more developed wall, hardware and traffic wise, I have been to in the reserve.  Several of the routes even have cold shuts at the top. 

Zoo Wall is separated by a hole at the base of the main dihedral that is also referred to as a cave in the local guide.  There are a few routes climbers left of the hole with most being to the right.  You simply scramble through the hole if you want to climb the routes on the left side.  Head south on Dog Run Hollow Road from Highway 49.  After several miles, park at the Narrows designated parking area which is officially named the Boulder Picnic area, site of the Boulder Cabin.  Locate a trail heading east up Cache Creek.  At one point you have to leave the edge of the creek on the right side to circumvent a large pool of water. Descend back down to the creek bottom and in short order you ascend a climber’s trail on the south bank.  Zoo Wall is obvious because of the massive dihedral splitting it.  It takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the base of Zoo Wall from the parking area.

Zoo Wall Left, Routes Listed Left to Right, Left of the Dihedral (cave)

Side Saddle- 5.6/

Slap Roof- 5.6/

No Stone Unturned- 60’-5.9****/ This is a good route, but according to Mountain Project, a flake has gone missing setting up the strongest 5.9 crux I have ever pulled.  Climb up the roof to below a bolt at the left end of the wall.  You can protect in the crack out right with a solid #2 before having to commit to clipping the bolt.  The crux is a dyno move up and above the bolt, very physical for the grade.  Move to the thin corner to the right and stem up to the short face above.  Follow a thin seam straight up.  You set up a rap from a tree to the left or belay your second up.  Clean any of your raps by walking down a bushy ramp climbers left. Single to #2 and long cordelette to set up a rap on a tree if climbing more routes on this wall.  Dow

Fantasy Roof- 60’-5.8****/ Climb the right side of the roof, up a finger corner (bats) to a diving board type of feature.  Easily take the roof and continue up a finger seam.  You can sling a boulder climber’s right to set up a rap.  Walk off climbers left.  Single to #1 plus wires or offsets and a 240cm sling if you want to set up a rap up top.  Dow

Sundown Dihedral- 5.8R***/

Zoo Wall Right, Routes Listed Left to Right, Right of the Dihedral (cave)

Masters of Reality- 5.10dRX**/

Dihedral- 80’-5.6****/ Climb the obvious right facing corner to near the top and either traverse right and up to the fixed rap above Crazy Alice or continue and make a few fun 5.8 moves up the corner before you traverse right to the same fixed rap.  Single to #4 plus wires.  Dow

Crazy Alice- 80’-5.8****/ The guide touts this as the "most difficult" 5.8 in the park.  Follow a stellar seam/crack as it bends back and forth to the right and paralleling the obvious Dihedral Route. Place gear at will to a fixed rap (cold shuts).  Single to #2 with a few wires or off sets.  Dow

The Flying Nun- 40’-5.9***/ Stout and awkward for the grade.  A natural extension of Crazy Alice.  Stem left over to the right facing corner above Dihedral and make a committing move up to the roof.  Place a #.75 in the right crack and do a physical vertical lay back to pull the roof.  Scramble down a ramp climber’s right and back climbers left to the fixed rap above Crazy Alice.  Single from micro to #.75.  Dow

Sloth- 5.10a**/

McBride’s Mind- 5.10aR***/

Dr. Coolhead- 80’-5.10dRX****/ Not sure why the FAer does not want to add bolts to this route.  It would get more lead traffic if it was properly bolted.  Start below grade and start making 5.10 moves before clipping your first bolt.  Continue up fun edge and side pull climbing through another bolt and to its fixed rap anchor (cold shuts).  Two draws.  You can protect low down with some smaller gear but it won’t protect a ground fall if you fall right below clipping the first bolt.  Dow

Richard Pryor Route- 5.8*/

Leap Frog- 85’-5.10a***/ Start up the left side of the overhang to the right of Dr Coolhead.  Climb the grassy seam on the left side, a wider variation start is to the right.  Eventually gain the left leaning hand crack taking off to the left towards Dr. Coolhead.  The crux is when the crack peters out, you need to face climb up a slippery edge to a good pocket.  Finish and rap on Dr. Coolhead.  Single to #3 plus some wires or offsets.  Dow

Larin Has Balls- 5.7R*/

Too Much Fun- 5.10b**/

Scrotum Roof- 5.11**/

Conflict in Terms- 5.12a*/

Extended Alter Call- 5.9*/

Sweet Jesus- 5.6*/

Critical Mass- 5.10b***/

Unfinished Piece- 5.6**/

Yellow Corner- 5.7***/

Triple Decker- 5.8**/

Big Flush- 5.7R*/

My Name is Nobody- 5.9R*/