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Route |
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40.61940°N / 111.7874°W |
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Sport,Trad - Single/Multipitch |
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Less than two hours |
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5.6-5.11d |
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Drive 2.85 miles up from the neon sign. You can either park on one of the pullouts on the right side of the road, or park in the Storm Mountain picnic ground ($4.00) on the left side of the road. The entrance says that it costs $2 to use the area for any reason, but I'm not sure if this applies to climbers rather than just picnickers. The host has never said anything as I've walked by, and I've never seen climbers paying fees.
Once in the picnic ground, cross the bridge and follow the asphalt paths to the right to reach a playground at the edge of a large field. Follow a climbers trail throught the grasses across the field to the wall, which is NW from the playground. Enter the trees and scramble up a ledge system angling left (cl. 4) to reach the base of the main wall.
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There are two cruxes, the hardest being at the 2nd bolt where one must climb over a vertical smooth wall with jugs at the top (5.9+?). You can rest on a narrow ledge at the top of this. If you want to cheat, you can climb around the left edge of the slab (5.8?). The top third of the route is much easier. From the anchor chains, it is a vertical 80 ft rap.
The upper part of the route introduces enough rope drag that if top-roping the route, the belayer may want to stand up, take in rope, and sit down to make sure that all the slack is taken in.