Cascade Volcanoes Week of June 29

Posted by bgranger on May 30, 2009
Page Views: 284

Date: On Jun 29, 2009
Location: California, United States
City or Place: San Diego
Skill Level: Advanced
Categories: Mountaineering
Partner Status: Want Partners

Join me to climb a couple fantastic routes on two beautiful Cascade volcanoes during the week of June 29 (Fourth of July holiday week).

Routes will include the Adams glacier on Mount Adams, WA, http://www.summitpost.org/route/155604/adams-glacier.html

and the Jefferson Park Glacier on Mount Jefferson, OR,
http://www.summitpost.org/route/159096/jefferson-park-glacier.html.

These both have reputations as challenging, quality and interesting glacier routes.

Climbing partners should be very comfortable mountaineering on steep glaciated terrain as these are both advanced, glacier climbs. I will try to put together a team of three or four experienced climbers on a 60 m rope. Team members should be adept at roped travel negotiating crevasses and placing protection (pickets and/or ice screws), and should be practiced with crevasse rescue (z-pulley, c-pulley techniques). All team members should have appropriate equipment, and a high level of physical conditioning.

I have not climbed either of these two routes, so it will very much be a team effort for route finding, climbing, and descending.

Proposed itinerary as follows:
Monday, June 29 (or early morning Tuesday, June 30): Fly to Portland, OR

Tuesday, June 30: Depart Portland NLT 10 AM. Drive (2 hours) and approach Jefferson Park Glacier (~5 miles, budget 5 hours), Bivouac.

Wednesday, July 1: Alpine start (midnight-2 AM), summit Mount Jefferson (10,497'). Return to car, drive toward Portland (~2 hours), hotel, rest.

Thursday, July 2: Depending on general feeling, rest day... or, drive to Mt. Adams (3 hours), approach Adams Glacier to Killen Meadows snow camp (~3 miles, budget 4 hours), Bivouac.

Friday, July 3: Alpine start (midnight-2 AM), summit Mount Adams (12,276'). Return to car, drive to Portland (3 hours).

Saturday, July 4: (Contingency day). If on original schedule, return home, or stay in or around Portland for the Fourth of July.

Sunday, July 5: Return home.

I hope I've described this fairly accurately. This is definitely not a guided trip, but an alpine climbing team effort. You should be experienced and efficient mountaineering on glaciated volcanoes. The proposed routes will be challenging and will require a high level of conditioning, and a concentrated team effort.

Please send a detailed note describing your mountaineering experience (especially in the last couple years). Additionally, if you have any doubts, please discuss with me your current level of physical conditioning. I simply want to ensure that everyone on the trip knows what to expect, and has a great time.

Brian
mtnsports86@yahoo.com