Mt. Adams / Mt. Jefferson week of June 29

Posted by bgranger on Jun 20, 2009
Page Views: 244

Dates: Jun 29, 2009 through Jul 4, 2009
Location: Oregon, United States
City or Place: Portland
Skill Level: Advanced
Categories: Mountaineering
Partner Status: Will accept Partners

Join me to climb a couple fantastic routes on two beautiful Cascade volcanoes during the week of June 29 (Fourth of July holiday week).

Routes will include the Adams glacier on Mount Adams, WA, http://www.summitpost.org/route/155604/adams-glacier.html

and the Jefferson Park Glacier on Mount Jefferson, OR, http://www.summitpost.org/route/159096/jefferson-park-glacier.html.

These both have reputations as challenging, quality and interesting glacier routes.

Climbing partners should be very comfortable mountaineering on steep glaciated terrain as these are both advanced, glacier climbs. I will try to put together a team of three or four experienced climbers on a 60 m rope. Team members should be adept at roped travel negotiating crevasses and placing protection (pickets and/or ice screws), and should be practiced with crevasse rescue (z-pulley, c-pulley techniques). All team members should have appropriate equipment, and a high level of physical conditioning.

I have not climbed either of these two routes, so it will very much be a team effort for route finding, climbing, and descending.

Proposed itinerary as follows:
Monday, June 29: Depart Portland, OR around 3 PM, drive to Trout Lake, WA (~2.5 hours),

Tuesday, June 30: Visit ranger station, get permits. Drive to Killen Creek (~1 hour). Approach Adams Glacier to Killen Meadows snow camp (~3+ miles, budget ~5 hours), Bivouac.

Wednesday, July 1: Alpine start (midnight-2 AM), summit Mount Adams (12,276') (~7 hours). Return to camp (~4.5 hours), then back to car (~2.5 hours). Drive toward Mill City, OR (4.5 hours if all the way to Mill City, but probably stop at a hotel (or nice campground) along the way for shower/recovery/sleep).

Thursday, July 2: Drive rest of way to Mill City. Get permits at ranger station. Drive to trailhead (~1 hour), Approach Jefferson Park Glacier (~5 miles, budget 5+ hours), Bivouac. (Depending on how everyone feels and how the weather is holding, we could also consider making this a rest day).

Friday, July 3: Alpine start (midnight-2 AM), summit Mount Jefferson (10,497') (~9 hours). Return to camp (~5.5 hours). Then back to car (~2.5 hours). Find a hot shower, sleep.

Saturday, July 4: (Contingency day). Chill out in the Cascades, celebrate the Fourth of July wherever we want.... or, summit day for Mount Jefferson, then head toward Portland.

Sunday, July 5: Return home (recommend making flights between 10 and noon).

I hope I've described this fairly accurately. This is definitely not a guided trip, but an alpine climbing team effort. You should be experienced and efficient mountaineering on glaciated volcanoes. The proposed routes will be challenging and will require a high level of conditioning, and a concentrated team effort.

Please send a detailed note describing your mountaineering experience (especially in the last couple years). Additionally, if you have any doubts, please discuss with me your current level of physical conditioning. I simply want to ensure that everyone on the trip knows what to expect, and has a great time.

Brian