Partner for Mountaineering in Peru

Posted by per160 on Feb 28, 2012
Page Views: 311

Dates: Jun 5, 2012 through Jul 25, 2012
Location: Peru
City or Place: Peru
Skill Level: Advanced
Categories: Mountaineering
Partner Status: Need Partners

Hola!
I´m a 30 year old guy from Sweden doing an eight month climbing trip in South America, slowly working my way up from Patagonia, via the Lake District, to Colombia, Peru, Ecuador and finally Bolivia, squeezing in as much rock, ice and snow as I can along the way. I´ll be spending June and July in Huarez, heading up in the Cordillera Blanca mountains as often as I can, and will need a new friend or two, to play in the snow with me!

I mostly do trad- and ice climbing, but I´ve done quite a bit of mountaineering in the past, in places like Dofourspitze, Mt Blanc, Mt Rainier, Aconcagua and the Liskamm traverse. Being a bit bored with easier mountaineering like this I´d like to do mostly routes graded between AD and D+. Safety is my #1 priority, so hotheads need not bother contacting me. Don´t mind early mornings and I´m in pretty good shape for long and fast approaches. Will most likely be acclimatized all the time, from previous peaks, and I havn´t had any problems with altitude in the past, so ideally I would prefer fairly quick ascents.

The routes are mostly on esthetic peaks with relatively short approaches, and more info can be found if you search for them on summitpost.org. Got a single rack, tent, stove, rope and the guidebooks, and will do more research on the peaks as time is moving closer. It seems like it makes sense to hike into a valley with a week or two of supplies and try to do a couple of peaks from there, with a couple of rest days and bad weather days thrown in.

I´d like to start out with the following easy but spectacular peaks in the Quebrada Llanganuco valley to get fit and acclimatized and get a feeling for the area:

Pisco PD
Yanapacha PD+
Chopicalqui south west ridge PD+/AD-

After that I´d like to go to the Quebrada Santa Cruz Valley to do the following classics:

Alpamayo AD+
Quitarayo AD
(Artesonraju North Ridge D)

After all that scenic slogging I´ll probably feel like something harder, perhaps some of the following:

Artesonraju SE face D, and Piramide AD, and perhaps a rock route on La Esfinge
Tocclaraju NW ridge D or west face D+
Huascaran Sur:s Shield Route D

Finally if I´m feeling really motivated and find the right ropegun, maybe even an attempt on Chopicalqui SE ridge TD-. That may well be way too ambitious though, and I´ll have to do some more research first.


If it sounds interesting, check out my profile on mountainproject (www.mountainproject.com/u/106846731), send me a message, email me on per160@hotmail.com, or add me on facebook. Please don´t send me messages via summitpost as I may not get them.

Sorry for my poor Spanish……:)

Cheers!
Per Andersson