Sierra Climbing 7/18-20 - Mt. Goode & Mt. Winchell

Posted by bgranger on Jul 3, 2008
Page Views: 307

Date: On Jul 18, 2008
City or Place: South Lake, Bishop, CA
Skill Level: Advanced
Categories: Mountaineering
Partner Status: Want Partners

Hello Mountaineers,

I'd like to head into the Sierras the weekend of July 18-20 (possibly through the 21st) to do some technical climbs on two fantastic peaks. The routes I have in mind are The North Buttress of Mt. Goode (III 5.9+) and the West Arete of Mt. Winchell (III 5.8). Both are considered classic High Sierra climbs and will make a great long weekend outing. I'd like to do this trip with 2 or 4 people.

Climbing partners should be very comfortable leading at a level of 5.8-5.10-, simu-climbing easier pitches (<5.6), and scrambling (unroped) class 3/4 terrain. These will be very challenging, long, intensive climbing routes; and climbing them back to back will be even more challenging. This will require a high level of physical conditioning.

The most efficient technique for these routes will be swapping leads on consecutive pitches, simu-climbing easier pitches, and scrambling through the class 3/4 portions. I have not been on either of these peaks, so it will very much be a team effort for navigating to the base of the climbs, route finding during the ascent, climbing each route, and making a safe descent from the peak.

I'd like to leave Thursday evening (the 19th) by 6 PM from San Diego (leaving early Friday morning, may also be possible). Carpooling would be ideal. I'm happy to drive or ride (I have a Toyota Tacoma so can comfortably fit another person with gear). We could also meet at a park-and-ride along the way to stash one vehicle. We'll drive straight through and car camp near Bishop.

On Friday morning, we'll pick up appropriate permits from the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, and make the approach. I think the best strategy for climbing both peaks will be to head over Bishop Pass and camp in Dusy Basin (7-8 miles, ~5-6 hours). This would be a great starting point for Mt. Winchell, and is on the descent route for Mt. Goode.

On Saturday morning we'll get an alpine start (up at ~4 hiking at ~5). One team of two will climb Mt. Goode, while the other climbs Mt. Winchell. This should allow us to meet back at camp late afternoon to swap stories and beta, and have a good dinner, and prepare for the following day.

Sunday morning will be the same routine, with the teams climbing alternate routes. Again, we should be back in camp by late afternoon on Sunday.

At this point, we can pack up, head back to the cars, and drive back to Southern California soaking up all the great climbing we've done over the weekend. Of course we'll be cranked-up on adrenaline (and perhaps a little caffeine), and re-living the great experience all the way home.

Alternatively, we could just enjoy another night in the mountains, head out early on Monday morning, and make it back to Southern California at a leisurely time on Monday (the 20th).

I hope I've described this fairly accurately. This is definitely not a guided trip, but an alpine climbing team effort. It will be rigorous, pretty intensive climbing, and there will be a lot of it! It's going to be a very high-energy weekend :-)

Again, you should be very adept at climbing/leading/simu-climbing at this level, negotiating steep snow, and snow/rock transitions, and high-Sierra route finding. Your physical conditioning should be very good, and your tolerance for mosquitoes even better :-) (we'll bring plenty of repellent) It should be a fantastic weekend.

If your profile doesn't accurately describe your climbing experience, please send it to me separately. Please specify your experience climbing (leading) multi-pitch, technical routes in the mountains. Additionally, please provide a self-assessment of your current level of physical conditioning. Again, this will be a very high-energy weekend requiring a high level of conditioning. I'm happy to discuss this with you further. I just want to ensure that everyone that goes on this trip has a blast and knows exactly what they're getting themselves into :-)

Brian
858-270-9866