SummitPost.org

The IT specialist . . . had an ambition to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents.
. . .
He was using the climbs to raise awareness for the charity OCD Action, which aids people with obsessive compulsive disorder.

Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT

Day Hiker wrote:Personal note: Never climb any mountain on which I am automatically considered dead if I am merely slowed or briefly immobilized, and my partners are unable to save my life, even though I am WITH them at the time.

The IT specialist . . . had an ambition to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents.
. . .
He was using the climbs to raise awareness for the charity OCD Action, which aids people with obsessive compulsive disorder.

Oh, the irony.

SoCalHiker wrote:

Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT

I completely agree with you. Being on a guided team that came together to climb a mountain can give you a false sense of security. They climb together but for themselves. To have a partner on a mountain is a entirely different story.

Jose Batres wrote:I can't believe this guys left this mountaneering on Everest descent. I would die trying to recue him before living him by himself. People cares about themselves to much now days, no team work at all. Sucks!!!

Mihai Tanase wrote:

SoCalHiker wrote:

Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT

I completely agree with you. Being on a guided team that came together to climb a mountain can give you a false sense of security. They climb together but for themselves. To have a partner on a mountain is a entirely different story.

+1