Team Forced to Leave Blinded Climber on Everest descent

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Augie Medina

 
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Team Forced to Leave Blinded Climber on Everest descent

by Augie Medina » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:51 pm

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world ... 88979.html

From the brief description, sounds like his mates did all they could. What a vivid contrast of being "bubbly" on the summit and incapacitated a very short time later.

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Day Hiker

 
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by Day Hiker » Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:43 pm

Personal note: Never climb any mountain on which I am automatically considered dead if I am merely slowed or briefly immobilized, and my partners are unable to save my life, even though I am WITH them at the time.



The IT specialist . . . had an ambition to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents.
. . .
He was using the climbs to raise awareness for the charity OCD Action, which aids people with obsessive compulsive disorder.

Oh, the irony. :?

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by The Chief » Wed Jun 02, 2010 10:57 pm

You have got to be fking kidding me!!!!


I wonder what the headlines and International outcry would have read if this was 13 year old Romero being left behind to die.

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by jdzaharia » Wed Jun 02, 2010 11:20 pm

Kind of reminds me of the solo climber that died up there a few years ago. Several people walked past him, but were forced to leave him. There's a thread on here somewhere about it.

I had a central retinal vein occlusion, which then resulted in retinal hemorrhaging a couple years ago. I have mostly recovered, with the exception of several small blind spots due to scar tissue. Certain people are more at risk for for this, due to the construction of their eyes. Definitely a risk that one takes climbing that high. Maybe those familiar with climbing at that altitude have already thought of this, but it is entirely possible that a daily baby aspirin could have prevented the problem.

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Mihai Tanase

 
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by Mihai Tanase » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:22 am


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Jose Batres

 
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No way!!

by Jose Batres » Thu Jun 03, 2010 3:05 pm

I can't believe this guys left this mountaneering on Everest descent. I would die trying to recue him before living him by himself. People cares about themselves to much now days, no team work at all. Sucks!!!

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by Hotoven » Thu Jun 03, 2010 3:51 pm

Wow, its sad to hear this news...

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SoCalHiker

 
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by SoCalHiker » Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:01 pm

Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT


I completely agree with you. Being on a guided team that came together to climb a mountain can give you a false sense of security. They climb together but for themselves. To have a partner on a mountain is a entirely different story.

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by jdzaharia » Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:40 pm

The Everest News article is a little unclear, but it seems they spent a considerable amount of time trying to restore Kinloch's vision. If it was indeed retinal hemorrhaging, and he had had it before, Kinloch should have known that it would not be cured in a matter of hours. Even with a timely visit to a well-trained eye specialist, the blindness could last weeks or months. Maybe the time spent to restore vision could have been spent leading a blind man down. Although, maybe it is impossible to down-climb that portion of Everest blind.

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Buz Groshong

 
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by Buz Groshong » Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:52 pm

Day Hiker wrote:Personal note: Never climb any mountain on which I am automatically considered dead if I am merely slowed or briefly immobilized, and my partners are unable to save my life, even though I am WITH them at the time.



The IT specialist . . . had an ambition to climb the highest peak on each of the seven continents.
. . .
He was using the climbs to raise awareness for the charity OCD Action, which aids people with obsessive compulsive disorder.

Oh, the irony. :?


Exactly! What could be stronger evidence of OCD than climbing Mt. Everest?

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Mihai Tanase

 
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by Mihai Tanase » Thu Jun 03, 2010 4:58 pm

SoCalHiker wrote:
Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT


I completely agree with you. Being on a guided team that came together to climb a mountain can give you a false sense of security. They climb together but for themselves. To have a partner on a mountain is a entirely different story.

+1

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simonov

 
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Re: No way!!

by simonov » Thu Jun 03, 2010 9:35 pm

Jose Batres wrote:I can't believe this guys left this mountaneering on Everest descent. I would die trying to recue him before living him by himself. People cares about themselves to much now days, no team work at all. Sucks!!!


According to the article, the rescuers did nearly die.

Perhaps they thought one body on Everest was better than three bodies on Everest.

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Dan Shorb

 
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by Dan Shorb » Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:29 am

Mihai Tanase wrote:
SoCalHiker wrote:
Dingus Milktoast wrote:It seems to me this sort of thing is the product of guided climbing and lone questers who go to Everest and join commercial groups.

It seems unreasonable to expect a sherpa to die for a client. So a lone quester should not expect rescue from that quarter. If it comes, great, if not, the sherpas are just doing a job, one they need to survive.

Its seems unreasonable for a lone quester to expect rescue from other lone questers. If it comes, great, if not, they don't even know you, why should they die for you?

That leaves the 'team' except its a team in contract only. Will your teammates risk it all and stay with you till the bitter end? This man's team did not.

I very recently read K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. What a stunning read, particularly with the history and development of high altitude climbing in the last 2 decades.

From the massive storm endured for days at over 27000 feet to the discovery of Art Gilkey's debilitating thrombosis, and the ensuing ordeal to try to get him down, both Houston and Bates state there was never once any discussion about abandoning their disabled partner and fleeing for their lives.

Houston in particular, attributes the survival of all the team (but Gilkey, swept away in an avalanche) to that teamwork.

Doesn't seem to me there is any solution, for the guided climbers of the world. You go there alone, you climb alone, you descend alone. What are these strangers supposed to do for you? Its not reasonable to expect hired hands and strangers to die for you.

Teammates are different. Teams are different. Commercial guided groups are not the sort of teams one can rely upon, imo, when the shit gets grim.

DMT


I completely agree with you. Being on a guided team that came together to climb a mountain can give you a false sense of security. They climb together but for themselves. To have a partner on a mountain is a entirely different story.

+1


+2

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Bob Sihler
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by Bob Sihler » Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:40 am

I agree with Dingus as well.

I might put myself on the line for a friend or loved one, but for a stranger, I would help to the best of my ability until it threatened my own life. Sorry, but that's the way it is.

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John Duffield

 
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by John Duffield » Fri Jun 04, 2010 1:52 am

For me, I take away from this, assuming coming back alive is your top priority, how important it is to listen to your body. Up where breath comes in a long gasping tear, you have to worry about yourself. Everyone up there is at the edge of human endurance. Only he can know what was going on in his body, but my suspicion is, he ignored signals that there wasn't half his life force remaining, to get back down.

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