SummitPost.org

visentin wrote:Mihai Tanase left us yesterday

kamil wrote:Not bad! That's the guy who climbed last summer in Albania too.

dmiki wrote:

visentin wrote:Mihai Tanase left us yesterday

yatsek wrote:I've heard he may've returned.

yatsek wrote:And the great Hungarian Salamander you're familiar with has shown up.

dmiki wrote:Ah OK, the repost of her Mont Blanc photo?

yatsek wrote:

borutb wrote:

yatsek wrote: Actually, IMO the very bottom grades of the UIAA scale (0 to I) aren't very helpful at all.

Do you know if and/or how they are defined (by UIAA)?

Not really, I've just seen, in some route descriptions, things like UIAA 0+/I. I've always had the feeling this may refer to exposure rather than "difficulty", so maybe the US definition for a class 4 scramble really does describe them best.

kamil wrote:Don't remember those theoretical details... I just know when I've got to actively use hands (not just for balance or supporting myself) then it's at least grade I. When it gets a bit harder it's II.
On III I may feel like roping up or not, depending on the place, the route and how I feel that day
And all that precisely fits the definitions of YDS class 3, 4 and low 5 that were quoted above.

kamil wrote:One remark - from those many descriptions at SP that I've read I think YDS class 3 is about UIAA I, class 4 is roughly II and 5.0-5.4 is like III.

I know the scrambling route to Gierlach is I UIAA. I found the hardest place of scrambling to Maja Jezerce in Prokletije from south-west of similar technical difficulty and then found an American report grading it as class 3. So I can imagine that scrambling more difficult than this would be class 4, where those not used to it would prefer to rope up, which is exactly the definition of II UIAA for me. III or 5.x is where even most climbers would rather rope up.