Mts of East Central and SE Europe

Regional discussion and conditions reports for Europe. Please post partners requests and trip plans in the Europe Climbing Partners section.
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andreeacorodeanu

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by andreeacorodeanu » Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:17 pm

A new rockclimbing guide apear in Germany that cover all the area of Romania (440 pages!). :mrgreen: Its about "Dimension Vertical" by Gerald Krug. Here a link about and for buying:

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=en/node/115

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kamil

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by kamil » Wed Sep 29, 2010 7:24 pm

Not bad! That's the guy who climbed last summer in Albania too.

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dmiki

 
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Re:

by dmiki » Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:08 pm

visentin wrote:Mihai Tanase left us yesterday


:(

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andreeacorodeanu

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by andreeacorodeanu » Wed Sep 29, 2010 8:22 pm

kamil wrote:Not bad! That's the guy who climbed last summer in Albania too.


Thats awesome cause we dont have too many books about and what we have are old,just in romanian... he also used some topos from the old ones :).

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yatsek

 
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Re: Re:

by yatsek » Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:28 pm

dmiki wrote:
visentin wrote:Mihai Tanase left us yesterday

:(

I've heard he may've returned. :) And the great Hungarian Salamander you're familiar with has shown up. :)

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Fri Oct 01, 2010 7:16 am


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dmiki

 
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Re: Re:

by dmiki » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:18 am

yatsek wrote:I've heard he may've returned. :)


That's good, would have been a pity for him to leave for good.

yatsek wrote:And the great Hungarian Salamander you're familiar with has shown up. :)


Ah, didn't know that, thanks for the heads-up. How did you know she is her?

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dmiki

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by dmiki » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:23 am

Ah OK, the repost of her Mont Blanc photo?

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Fri Oct 01, 2010 9:41 am

dmiki wrote:Ah OK, the repost of her Mont Blanc photo?

Right you are.

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visentin

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by visentin » Fri Oct 01, 2010 10:42 am

Some recent pictures of the Rychlebskie mountains

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Sat Oct 02, 2010 11:09 am

yatsek wrote:
borutb wrote:
yatsek wrote: Actually, IMO the very bottom grades of the UIAA scale (0 to I) aren't very helpful at all.

Do you know if and/or how they are defined (by UIAA)?

Not really, I've just seen, in some route descriptions, things like UIAA 0+/I. I've always had the feeling this may refer to exposure rather than "difficulty", so maybe the US definition for a class 4 scramble really does describe them best.

I've just decided to rely on the British system - as far as scrambling is concerned 8)

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Sat Oct 02, 2010 12:30 pm

kamil wrote:Don't remember those theoretical details... I just know when I've got to actively use hands (not just for balance or supporting myself) then it's at least grade I. When it gets a bit harder it's II.
On III I may feel like roping up or not, depending on the place, the route and how I feel that day :D
And all that precisely fits the definitions of YDS class 3, 4 and low 5 that were quoted above.

Another interesting opinion - by mvs

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Mon Oct 04, 2010 11:43 am

Borut,
I've just come to think UIAA grade IV equates to YDS 5.55 – nice figures, isn't it? :D

kamil wrote:One remark - from those many descriptions at SP that I've read I think YDS class 3 is about UIAA I, class 4 is roughly II and 5.0-5.4 is like III.

I know the scrambling route to Gierlach is I UIAA. I found the hardest place of scrambling to Maja Jezerce in Prokletije from south-west of similar technical difficulty and then found an American report grading it as class 3. So I can imagine that scrambling more difficult than this would be class 4, where those not used to it would prefer to rope up, which is exactly the definition of II UIAA for me. III or 5.x is where even most climbers would rather rope up.

Been studying the problem ;) The way I see it now is
UIAA I = Scrambling (both US and UK :!: ) grade/class 3.5 (i.e. upper 3 or lower 4) = around YDS climbing grade 5.05
UIAA II = upper class 4 (scrambling) = YDS 5.2 (trad climbing)
UIAA III = YDS 5.35
UIAA IV = YDS 5.55
UIAA V = YDS 5.75
8)

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yatsek

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by yatsek » Tue Oct 05, 2010 9:18 am

The Cold Valleys of the Tatras.

Image

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visentin

 
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Re: East Central Europe

by visentin » Wed Oct 06, 2010 8:32 am


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