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Hi There

Myself and 3 friends are looking to do the Eiger next year (2010), just the easy South route. We have 4 days in November this year to go to the area and look around, try some easy routes on the lower slopes or in the area. We don't want the expense of hiring guides an don't really have enough days to fully aclimatise. So what routes would people recomend trying? I have no idea what grade we climb to but we did the sumit of Mount Etna on New Years eve last year if that is any indication; easy but very cold!

Thanks!

Stephen

I have no idea what grade we climb to but we did the sumit of Mount Etna on New Years eve last year if that is any indication; easy but very cold!

Etna is a hiking trip, no matter what season... I second that Eiger normal route is something completely different. What is more, descent uses the same traverse and is no way easier than ascent.

Martin

Mönch SE ridge (PD II) should give you an idea about the climbing at Eiger. Also, you can take a look at the Eiger S ridge from the Mönch summit already.
Trugberg traverse (AD- III) would be another idea, once you're at the Mönchsjoch Hut anyway.

Peter K wrote:Mönch SE ridge (PD II) should give you an idea about the climbing at Eiger. Also, you can take a look at the Eiger S ridge from the Mönch summit already.
Trugberg traverse (AD- III) would be another idea, once you're at the Mönchsjoch Hut anyway.

Are those really ok in November?? is the hut even open in November. It is out of season, too early for skiing, yet too late for summer alpine. Looks like your our of luck
http://www.moenchsjoch.ch/?curr_lang=en

Warden service provided:
End of March to mid-October

I have missed that you want to start in november...

So this undertaking is reserved for very experienced mountaineers... Again, climbing Etna in south-european "winter" in no way qualifies for that.

(OT: The hut should have a winter room left open even if it is not guarded -- you usually have to bring your food and sometimes a stove + gas. Overnight fee is paid into a safe or by bank transfer.)

Martin

SteveViney wrote:

Peter K wrote:Mönch SE ridge (PD II) should give you an idea about the climbing at Eiger. Also, you can take a look at the Eiger S ridge from the Mönch summit already.
Trugberg traverse (AD- III) would be another idea, once you're at the Mönchsjoch Hut anyway.

Are those really ok in November?? is the hut even open in November. It is out of season, too early for skiing, yet too late for summer alpine. Looks like your our of luck
http://www.moenchsjoch.ch/?curr_lang=en

Warden service provided:
End of March to mid-October

Well, there is no warden service provided indeed, but they leave a winter room opened, so you can stay there also during off-season.
The climb is tougher for sure than in summer and the risk of avalanches will be an aspect too, though the Mönch SE ridge is a frequented winter climb. Look for climber's log entries on the Mönch page or google for some winter climbs.

Peter K wrote:Look for climber's log entries on the Mönch page or google for some winter climbs.

There is one single SP log entry for Mönch in december, the rest of the so-called "winter" ascents occurs during alpine skiing season, i.e. march - april.

There is one single SP log entry for Eiger (apart from the north face aspirants...), which was unseccesful.

@gipfelbuch.ch there are +/- hundred entries for Eiger, only one in high winter (years ago).



Winter is perhaps the favourable season for north face climbers, but they watch the normal route with other eyes than someone, who has scaled Etna yet...

Martin