First Ascent
R. J. S. Mc Donald, Christian Almer, M. Anderegg on July 29, 1863.
Approach
See Approach in SW Ridge ROUTE to get to the base of the climb, Mönchsjoch Hütte.
Route Description
"The Alpine 4000 m Peaks by the Classic Routes" by Richard Goedeke says (page 34):
"From the Oberes Mönchsjoch (under Mönchsjoch Hutte), traverse S-Westwards for 400 m to the foot of the south spur (P 3.651); or reach the same point direct from the Sphinxstollen of the Jungfrau railway, climbing N-Eastwards. On the spur, climb debris then slabs, at first on limestone then further up more steeply on reddish gneiss, past the rain-gauge to P 3.887. Here the S spur joins the E-SE ridge. Continue along an almost horizontal snow or rock ridge (beware of cornices) to a steeper, rocky piece of ridge. Climb its edge, awkward when icy, to a further snow ridge. Over this, partly broken by rock steps, to a steeper ice passage. This leads to the junction (fore-summit) with the branch of the ridge ascending from the NE. Keep on the S side of the narrow summit ridge, taking care to avoid cornices, to gain the highest point on the spacious summit".
Essential Gear
Rope for a team, crampons, ice axe and winter clothes.
Images
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Bernese Alps
