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Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:04 pm**

BTW, guyzo....

You know the Chernobyl Wall is right across the parking lot from Cedar Grove's Roads End? A 20 minute hike up talus fields. The con: in summertime, that is definitely NOT the place to be!! south facing......nowuddahmeen!? :shock:

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:05 pm**

Guyzo wrote:Unless I am missing something?

Yep! You're missing something. I am not spilling eheh

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 6:36 pm**

Misha wrote:
Guyzo wrote:Unless I am missing something?

Yep! You're missing something. I am not spilling eheh

Well... I guess we will need to go see....

Whats with the slag roots, by Boyden Cave? Slab climbs with trees to hit while falling.... :wink:

Personalty, I feel that KK is one of the great starting points in the Sierra.

So you KK propsters... I have a q for you all:

In Vernons book, he talks about a 1,000 foot long, "F7" "Golden Aret" that stays about 3 feet wide for it's entire length. It's supposed to be visible from "Roads End".

Anybody done that, seen that.?

I am addicted to climbing on "Sierra Gold".... and fixes are hard to find.

spill beans, please. :wink:

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:04 pm**

HandjamMasterC wrote:
Have climbed a lot, sort of in KK. Chernobyl Wall, North Dome are all huge hikes right? They could be anywhere... I was really pointing out the fact that the climbs with short approaches are not that good....

KK has nothing even as good as "The Five Open Books" anywhere.

Unless I am missing something?

spill beans, Craig.

It's about as huge a hike as Suicide. If you were climbing on North Dome, I could shoot you with my M1 Garand with iron sights.

So that's about 1,000 yrds? Right?

gk :wink:

OK I got some of the geography wrong... North Dome is not that far of a hike.... I was thinking of The Grand Sentinel, that stuff you put up way way way way up that wall....
that is a really tough place to get a big wall rack up to.

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 10:55 pm**

Someone told me Kauk wanted to have a go at freeing Craig's route Cosmopolis up there on The Grand Sentinel until he did the approach once.

I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:07 pm**

Guyzo wrote:I was thinking of The Grand Sentinel, that stuff you put up way way way way up that wall....
that is a really tough place to get a big wall rack up to.

That approach will always have a special place in my heart

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:09 pm**

ksolem wrote:I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

Yup!

And 90% of them entail mostly Aid or the ability to climb sustained 5.11 trad.

That's the beans that Craig's not spelling.

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:50 pm**

Guyzo wrote:
Misha wrote:
Guyzo wrote:Unless I am missing something?

Yep! You're missing something. I am not spilling eheh

Well... I guess we will need to go see....

Whats with the slag roots, by Boyden Cave? Slab climbs with trees to hit while falling....

Personalty, I feel that KK is one of the great starting points in the Sierra.

So you KK propsters... I have a q for you all:

In Vernons book, he talks about a 1,000 foot long, "F7" "Golden Aret" that stays about 3 feet wide for it's entire length. It's supposed to be visible from "Roads End".

Anybody done that, seen that.?

I am addicted to climbing on "Sierra Gold".... and fixes are hard to find.

spill beans, please.

huh??? which page?

Posted: **Fri Dec 11, 2009 11:52 pm**

The Chief wrote:
ksolem wrote:I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

Yup!

And 90% of them entail mostly Aid or the ability to climb sustained 5.11 trad.

That's the beans that Craig's not spelling.

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:00 am**

ksolem wrote:Someone told me Kauk wanted to have a go at freeing Craig's route Cosmopolis up there on The Grand Sentinel until he did the approach once.

I believe it. Same thing happenned to me. Objects in Kings Canyon are larger than they appear...

That climb will go one day.

It will be the Astro Man of KK.

whats the gear list? something about 20ea in the in 1.5 - 1 inch range.... :wink:

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 1:31 am**

Misha wrote:
Guyzo wrote:I was thinking of The Grand Sentinel, that stuff you put up way way way way up that wall....
that is a really tough place to get a big wall rack up to.

That approach will always have a special place in my heart

Putanesca's Revenge!!!!

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 2:03 am**

Dave Daly wrote:
Maybe there are local climbers in these areas and they don't bother with the gym..

Tom-

Not to sound condescending but....STAY AWAY FROM THE GYM SCENE!!

Locals out at Tollhouse that you may run into......Barry Chambers and Cam Donahoo. Barry does resoling and lives in Auberry and Cam lives in Shaver Springs (just above Tollhouse). Look em up! Secondly, PM or email me or NateD here on SP. We'll help steer you in the right direction. Have you got your hands on the Sequoia Kings Canyon guidebook (rare these days and out of print)??

Places close to your stomping grounds:

-Tollhouse
-Courtright Reservoir
-The Obelisk
-Hoffman Mountain
-Kerkhoff Dome
-Shuteye Ridge (shhhh...its a secret )
-Wamello Dome (or Fresno Dome)
-Kings Canyon (dear god, don't get me started on a list!)
-Sequoia Nat' Park.....with a few notable formations to check out: Moro Rock, Little Baldy, Crystal Wall, Chimney Rock, Chimney Wall, Big Baldy

Speaking of Sequoia, some of the best obscure west side formations and roots around! If you're looking for a bit of alpine climbs on the west, try this one on for size:

The Timex Route (5.9), The Watchtower (Sequoia Nat'l Park)

Thanks for this! The Timex route looks great. We did the S Face of Moro a couple months ago and I really liked it...not a soul until we topped out and were nearly blinded by the camera flashes. I will definitely get on Timex next season and I was already planning to head to the Obelisk.

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 4:00 am**

-Sequoia Nat' Park.....with a few notable formations to check out: Moro Rock, Little Baldy, Crystal Wall, Chimney Rock, Chimney Wall, Big Baldy

And of course the elephant in the corner, Castle Rock Spire...

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:13 am**

I only saw Castle Domes for the first time this past summer; i'm amazed that this stunning piece of rock only has one (published -?) route on it ('Silmarillion' IV 5.11 per Secor) - my secret aid aspirations lit up as soon as i saw it, but promptly withered as i contemplated hauling aid gear 15 miles from Road's End...Ooof! late summer project, anyone?

:lol:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 0/sizes/o/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sharperblu ... 8/sizes/o/

Posted: **Sat Dec 12, 2009 8:24 am**

kewl, SB

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