Flattlander wrote:Central Gully is nontechnical, but perhaps a nice step between walkups like the Lion's Head and more technical stuff. That's why I want to do it. You just need your crampons and an ice axe, and I don't think snowshoes are necessary for the approach. Apparently, there's just one small ice bulge that can be climbed without pro or short tools, or simply skirted around if you don't want to eff with it. Other than that, it's a snowclimb. The thing is, if there's avalanche danger, it's no place to be and we'd have to just go up the Lion's Head or go down the road to (the AMAZING) Mt Adams or something.
http://www.summitpost.org/route/168446/ ... gully.htmlLet's do it!
No offense, but this post is misleading and, should a beginner follow your advice he/she may very well find themselves in over their heads. Central Gully is NOT "nontechnical" - the correct description would be "not technically difficult", which is not the same thing! Unless you have a considerable amount of ice climbing/mountaineering experience and are very comfortable on steep ice, you most likely WILL want to have both technical tools (or at least one long, one short), and pro (at least several ice screws, and possibly a couple of pickets if the snow is hard-packed). Finally, it is not true that you can easily "skirt around" the ice bulge, unless you're comfortable with slab climbing in plastic boots and crampons with no protection.
What you are describing when you say "one small ice bulge" is Central Gully in typical mid-to-late winter conditions in at least a normal, or above-normal snow year. However, I have seen Central Gully where there are 2 to 3 full pitches of ice. Granted, if you go in late Feb. you are unlikely to encounter it like that, but you definitely want to keep an eye on it by reading trip and condition reports, checking the weather, etc.
I'm not trying to scare anyone into not attempting Central Gully - just want to emphasize that it's not a climb to be taken lightly, especially if you haven't done it before or are relatively new to ice/winter climbing.