Approach
Same approach as for O'Dell's Gully. The central gully line is visible as soon as you enter the ravine bowl, look for the straight 45 degrees snow slope in the middle of the headwall. Even if it is regarded as an easy climb, precautions should be taken as this route is in avalanche terrain and new snow loadings can cause slab instability. Always register at Pinkham Notch and read carefully the avalanche reports and forecasts.
Route Description
A very nice route for someone's first "alpine" ascent. The slope is a sustained 40 to 50 degrees with a 50 degrees ice bulges near the end of the first pitch. Depending on the winter, this bulge might not be visible at all so don't expect to be able to put anything in it. Also, around half way in the first pitch, you will encounter an avalanche run out zone from Pinnacle gully. Some large ice chunks can detach from Pinnacle and end up in Central, so be on the look out. Depending on the thaw, you can expect to encounter some loose rocks on the last pitch as well as running water under the thinner slab. Some climbers having climbed other gullies in the day sometime descend using the central gully, so be on the look out for humain triggered debris. Having successfully climbed Central, you can descend using the Lion's Head trail via the Alpine Garden trail.
Essential Gear
As for any snow climb, it depends highly on the snow conditions. Can be done unroped with mountaineering ice axe and walking crampons. However, be aware that avalanche conditions can exist in the gully and unstable slabs might encourage you to go roped with a couple of stakes for a running belay.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Presidential Range
