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Ultralight multi-day climbing pack

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:10 pm
by Misha
I am lookng for a 2-3lb climbing pack that can carry 40-45lb. It should be usable with a helmet on while on steep terrain. A frame is helpful but not necessary. I am willing to sacrifice some comforts and features as long as the pack is light.

At this point, I am trying to decide between Osprey Exos 58, GoLite Jam/Pinnacle and CiloGear Dyneema 45L

Any opinions about these packs or any other recommendations?

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 7:33 pm
by bird
Pinnacle is not good for climbing. In one trip the waist buckle broke and a strap ripped off. I returned it. Partner has used Jam and liked it. REI Flash looks interesting.

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:00 pm
by Brad Marshall
I have an Osprey Exposure 66 that weighs in a little over 3 lbs that carries heavy loads really well and doesn't interfere with my helmet. Have you checked out the Osprey Variant 52?

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:07 pm
by Tsuyoshi
cilogear!!!!!!!!!!!!! i have the 40b and love it. it carries weight better than any other climbing pack i've used (wildthings ice sac, ricesac, cold cold world chernobyl etc). but the best part is how it climbs. no helmet issues at all!

PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2009 8:12 pm
by Misha
Brad Marshall wrote:I have an Osprey Exposure 66 that weighs in a little over 3 lbs that carries heavy loads really well and doesn't interfere with my helmet. Have you checked out the Osprey Variant 52?


I have Osprey Aether 60 (older model). It climbs well and is super comfortable *but* it is a tad over 4lb. To make it worthwhile, I am looking to shave ~2lb off my pack weight

Pack

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 12:43 am
by Snowy
Pod Sacs Thin Ice or X-pod. Awesome packs that can be stripped down; very durable. The X-pod is a good bit larger and heavier but still weighs under 3 lbs stripped http://www.prolitegear.com/site/search_engine.html?mv_session_id=QwdJZkAZ%3A153.90.84.195&search_clear=1&criteria=pod+sacs

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 1:05 am
by KevinCraig
The 45L carries weight well and can be easily tweaked with respect to weight vs. features. Also climbs very well.

If you decide on an Osprey, I'd recommend the Variant 52.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 3:01 am
by Captain Beefheart
I would get a CiloGear 60L. It still shrinks down small and it can also carry larger 40-45lb loads. My favorite pack ever!

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:04 am
by dishwasher-dave
I have had good luck with the golite pinnacle and jam2. Fairly simple design, reasonably durable pack material, but still light. They are also pretty affordable.

My one gripe with my (older model) is that the side compression straps don't allow for attaching across the back of the pack for carrying the occasional big awkward load. Not sure if the newer ones allow this, it would just require offsetting one male/female buckle.

...

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:31 pm
by robpatterson5
Osprey Exposure packs do not climb well, have had good luck w/ my clio 45 so far. was useing a Ospreyy Ceres 38 which was a little too small; a Ceres 50 might also work for you

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 4:58 pm
by fatdad
I'm always surprised by how low a profile Wild Things and Cold Cold World get on these threads. Both make awesome packs.

I've had a Wild Things Ice Sac (which may be a little small for what you're looking for) but it's been a great pack over the years. I'm on my second one. http://www.wildthingsgear.com

Cilogear always seem to get lots of good press but I've always heard issues about workmanship and customer service.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:06 pm
by MoapaPk
There is an obvious trade-off between weight and durability; many light packs use thin nylon. In snow, that may not be an issue, but with bushwhacking and rock tears, it is.

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:07 pm
by asmrz
I would second Fatdad's Wild Things recommendation. I have owned their Andinista since 1993 and (for lightweight alpine climbing) it does the job superbly. I had carried 50lbs in it several times, but with 40 lbs, it is more stable. Not cheap, but extremely smartly made with features that only someone who wants to go light, might appreciate. But who would that be...

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 5:38 pm
by ksolem
Climbing pioneer Dan McHale makes beautiful custom fit light packs in all sizes.

http://www.mchalepacks.com/

PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2009 7:47 pm
by asmrz
What we need here is a good conversation and to compare apples to apples when it comes to packs (and anything else).

1. Do you neeed a multipurpose pack to carry gear, hike, backpack to a base camp and stay there while you use a day pack to go climbing?

2. Or do you need a pack to go on an overnight technical alpine climb from the trailhead to the top of the climb and back?

If you need a pack to go on a alpine climb, be able to use the frame sheet as a bivy pad, be able to put your feet into the pack and tie the extension sleeve around you, that is one thing. You will not find it in a solid frame pack. Only removable frame pack will offer you that flexibility. Do you need to lower the volume of the pack easily and quickly, so you can climb with it? Most packs are not designed to do that easily and well. Do you need to be able to remove your ice tools from the holsters without taking the pack off? Do you need to have a gear sling as a part of the pack, so you can hang your climbing pro on the pack? Do you need to haul the pack once in a while? Do you need ski holsters on your alpine climbing pack? Do you need to extend the size and the load once in a while?

When we start comparing apples to apples, there are only very few packs that can deliver all of this for technical alpine climbing. Wild Things packs will deliver all of it and more.

These packs are very specific in their use. They are for two/three days of technical alpine rock and ice climbing, and very little else. Very trip specific gear.

You want a multipurpose pack, that is another post and propably (I'm guessing) not what Misha had in mind.