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Alpine Boots

PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:36 am
by DAS
I am new to alpine mountaineering and am interested in buying a good multi-purpose boot. My intended uses will be primarily summer (May - September?) alpine routes in the Cascades (ideally glaciated, moderate rock) and also ice climbing in the winter in the midwest.

I would love to hear if anyone has any recommendations on a boot that is a good general mountaineering boot and also can be an effective ice climbing boot for a newbie. I have an average to slightly wide foot and typically do not have trouble with cold feet until I get down around 10 degrees or less and am not moving.

I used plastics (Invernos) for a recent guided Shuksan Sulphide glacier climb but came away with an infection due to ankle damage. I've read all the posts on SP, and it seems like Sportivas are common. I've been eyeing the Trango Extreme Evos, but have not seen many reviews on this boot (particularly if people think it's warm enough for ice climbing). Any other thoughts / ideas would be welcome - thanks!

PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 12:40 am
by brandon
Sportiva boots generally fit narrow and low volume feet the best. Scarpa make really nice boots also, and they tend to fit wide and higher volume feet better.

A good boot fitter can work wonders on a boot for you that doesn't quite fit.

PostPosted: Sat Dec 19, 2009 6:56 pm
by mtngrl
I have a pair of Kayland's. Fit great and are warm. I've used them in the Cascades late summer (a little warm for the hike in) and in the winter in the Daks and the Whites (NH) for climbing and hiking.

Check out sierratrader.com. They are carrying a lot of mountaineering boots now and at some good prices.
Zappo's occasionally has mountaineering boots, too.

PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:05 am
by WML
Nepal Evos. Excellent boot unless you're climbing outside of the lower 48.

PostPosted: Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:06 am
by rockymtnclimber
I don't hear a lot of other commentary on them, but I love my Lowa climbing boots. I have the Cristallo Pro, but I'm not sure they still make that model. The Lowa's were pretty comfortable straight out of the box, similar to my Lowa light hikers. I have a fairly moderate foot size, maybe tending towards the low volume side.

PostPosted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 10:13 pm
by DAS
Thanks for advice! Sounds like the Nepals are a well-respected boot. Just hoping that they fit my feet.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 3:13 am
by LakeofConstance
I'm a big Scarpa fan (got the right feet for these shoes). I got the Triolet and never had a better fit at my heels. They are great for your summer glacier climbs and for (European) ice climbing. The North American winters will require some tweaking.
The Scarpa Jorasses is insulated and has an even more rigid sole, and so does the Scarpa Summit.
If La Sportiva is not for you, Scarpa is definitely worth a try.

LS and Kayland

PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 4:13 am
by Snowy
I've always been a pretty big La Sportiva, but I've also really liked Kayland. I had a chance to try the M11+ out last week, and they were pretty awesome...closer to a Fall/Winter/Spring boot, but not all that insulated either.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 5:28 am
by Koy
+1 for Kayland Boots. For primarily a summer boot, I think the Nepals would be overkill. I used to use the Nepals and liked them, but switched to these and am real happy I did. Significanltly lighter, but still stiff enough for vertical ice. Still plenty of insulation though for colder days.....

http://us.kayland.com/details.php?id=34

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:04 pm
by DAS
Thanks for advice all. Ended up with the Nepal EVOs. Very happy with them!

PostPosted: Tue Jan 12, 2010 11:55 pm
by climbxclimb
If it is mainly summer climbing the Nepal are too much.
Better something like the LS Trango Prime, lighter and more precise.
This is what I use now for climbing in the Alps in the summer and even for ice climbing in winter in North East, so far with 8F, my feet were still fine. given that they fit you, they are narrower than the Nepal

PostPosted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 4:53 am
by DAS
FortMental, if you are referring to the SPGear reviews, those are super helpful, and I will surely contribute to the Nepal page. I had seen these early on, but with little knowledge of boots, I had no idea where to start reading, and frankly do not have enough time to sift through all reviews for the many boot models listed. The gear forum was super helpful to me as a beginner in being able to throw out a question about boots specific to my needs - thanks again!