SummitPost.org

To preface; I am new to alpine mountaineering, only experience is numerous non-technical Colorado 14ers, both winter and summer summit. That said, my first high ascent will be a guided climb of Pisco in Peru, at 5700 m. The climb will be in late May of this year.

The summit push will be from moraine camp at ~4950m. From what I understand, the approach to moraine camp should be doable in approach shoes.

BOOTS:
The boots I have for my wife and I are, La Sporteva Nepal Evo GTX, and Salewa Pro Guide ( I also can get Pro Vertical), respectively. The Peruvian guide recommended double boot, but pragmatic local friends suggested that a single boot would be adequate, given the summit bid begins from moraine.

The price jump from single to double is substantial, so if I can get away with my current boot that would be ideal. I also want to be able to use these boots at home for all my winter shenanigans.

If you really think I need double, what is a good variety? Any thoughts on the Baruntse vs Spantik?

CRAMPON, ICE AXE
Black Diamond Sabretooth For Both
Black Diamond Raven For Both
LAYERING:
For Me:
1)Under Armor Cold Gear high neck
2)SmartWool NTS 250
3)MONT BELL Thermawrap Sport Jacket/La Sportiva Valhalla
3)Rab Microlight Parka
Backpack parka:Dynafit Cho Oyu 750

For Wife:
Same
Will this setup be warm enough? Also, is a hardhell necessary? We will also both be carrying Xenon X used for other exploits in Peru.

GLOVES:
Me: Black Diamond Guide
Her: Outdoor Research Aerete

Backpack backup: Outdoor Research Altitude Mitts

BACKPACK
Osprey Atmos for both of us

SLEEPING
Downmat 5
1200g down -30, -18, 0°C mummy bag

I've done many forum searches already, which has given me the above list as my starting point. Any updated input would be very much appreciated!

Hey there. That set up is a bit overkill, but better over than under eh? Unless you 'run cold' in your feet, those boots should do you just fine for that summit, though you may wish to wear the extra liner sock and put a foot warmer pack on top of each liner sock in the am when you get started. Keep a few extra with you and you'll be fine; you can get up and off Pisco fairly swiftly. If your plan includes possibly extending your itinerary to additional summits, you may wish to reconsider and go with a warmer hybrid boot (Batura) instead. The beauty of the Evo is that they work fine as an approach shoe as well of course

I'm actually considering going the route of plastic now. I have a tendency to overbuy. Ive seen Scarpa Invernos, and Koflach Degrees going for as little as $99 new, any thoughts on those boots?

Sharper, yeah, a lot of people have already told me my sleeping bags are way overkill. However, my wife runs really cold, and these will be great for winter camping in Colorado.

JtheChemE wrote:From what I understand, the approach to moraine camp should be doable in approach shoes.

Tennis shoes work just fine to the base camp. In fact I stayed in tennis shoes all the way to the glacier. Layer wise I brought 1 t-shirt, a thin long sleeve, a sweat shirt, and a puffy. I think I brought a shell just in case. Single layer of pants and single gloves.

Josh Lewis wrote:

JtheChemE wrote:From what I understand, the approach to moraine camp should be doable in approach shoes.

Tennis shoes work just fine to the base camp. In fact I stayed in tennis shoes all the way to the glacier. Layer wise I brought 1 t-shirt, a thin long sleeve, a sweat shirt, and a puffy. I think I brought a shell just in case. Single layer of pants and single gloves.

What kind of boots did you wear?

Asolo AFS Evoluzione Mountaineering Boots. I bought mine at the REI basement for slightly under $50. Even though they were used and a bit old, they were pretty awesome (and still are). I used them on Alpamayo up the French Direct route too. Keep in mind that I do not wear them on approaches unless I absolutely have to in order to save my feet and preserve the boot.

I climbed Pisco with plastic Koflach boot, these one:



The boot Koflach Degree is an evolution of this old model. Also Asolo is an excellent high mountain boot.

Plastic boots are cheap, and have worked well for a long time. I purchased Koflach Degre, and will be testing them here on frozen 14ers. I have a tendency to overbuy, so rather than dump even more $ into gear, I will see how I like Pisco, and upgrading to a modern double for the next one.

Alberto, is that picture from Pisco?

JtheChemE wrote:Alberto, is that picture from Pisco?

No, that's Tocclaraju!