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I'm doing Owen Spalding car to car in a day in August. I'm assuming a standard rack of stoppers and tri cams is more than enough. Is this correct? I'm thinking about the last few 5.3-5.4's I led and don't remember using much big stuff unless it was a specific crack climb. Or should I take 3-4 camalots in the 1-3 range?

I did the OS years ago in August and my memory is hazy, but I recall climbing a steep, wide verglassed crack that would have taken big pieces. I have the feeling we climbed one of the variations like the Wittich Crack, which was significantly harder than the rest of the climbing.

I always bring the four largest BD Hexes for easy climbs in addition to a rack of Stoppers and three smaller Tricams. They are plenty light and fit from 0.5 to 3.0 Camalot sizes.

You'll only need it if it's icy, but a #4 doesn't hurt in the first chimney after the saddle. The only reason you'll need a rope in the upper chimney is people descending.

You'll only need it if it's icy, but a #4 doesn't hurt in the first chimney after the saddle. The only reason you'll need a rope in the upper chimney is people descending.