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Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:11 pm
by Dave Daly
Sound advice...especially the later part!

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:16 pm
by Craig Peer
Hey, we need him in one piece. I wouldn't solo that route. Aunt Fanny, maybe that would be ok ( but why? - rope up and do something harder and more interesting - and drag me along for the ride while you're at it!)!

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:24 pm
by Jack Daniels
Poor Aunt Fanny's Pantry sure gets picked on! It doesn't have to be hard to be fun. The joy of movement is at the heart of free climbing for most folks and easy climbing provides that. I personally like that climb. It is a little dirty and not particularly hard, but it takes you to a novel location(one can say the same thing about a huge number of mountaineering objectives). Also, from "the pantry" itself, you can rap down to the chains for Energizer and thereby top rope that route.

As for free soloing... that's a topic that's been beaten to death. John, if you aren't already onsite free soloing polished 5.8 liebacks with no easy downclimb, please give it some thought before you launch off.

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:28 pm
by John
Yeah - I thought it might be a mistake to broadcast my FS plans ;-) Just heard from Michele that she won't be able to make next weekend unfortunately. Not sure if this has anything to do with Church Bowl Lieback - which incidentally I think is a great climb.<p>I guess my weekend is open. Anyone want to climb something? Free soloing 5.8 is not mandatory ;-)

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 6:34 pm
by Jack Daniels
<i>I thought it might be a mistake to broadcast my FS plans</i>

True enough. I find it best not to tell anybody (even my girlfriend) about something like that lest it affect my decision to go or bail. Best to have an unclouded mind.

<i>I guess my weekend is open. Anyone want to climb something?</i>

My weekend is open at the moment. What kind of climbing are you up for?

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:53 pm
by John
Jack - I just sent you an email. Let me know what you think.

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 2:33 pm
by John
Looks like I'll be in Yosemite on Sunday. Not sure what I'll be doing yet but it will probably include some nailing practice.<p>For Saturday, I'm taking my cousin up on an offer to get away from climbing for a while. We're going fishing :-)

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 6:20 pm
by Dave Daly
Now soloing Cathedral Peak SE Butt. or Eichorn Pinnacle's North Face are excellent solo prospects for you, if you wanna start such endevours. Bob, Michael and I did the Cathedral Range (except for the Echo Peaks) last year and found it to be a truly awesome time. It was Michael first and last time to solo. See Bob's Sept 2002 TR on his webpage (www.bobburd.com). When you're soloing, you're so in tune with your 5 senses and everything is so magnified.

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 6:33 pm
by Craig Peer
Hey - no disrespect to either Aunt Fannys Pantry or easier class 5 climbing - that's what I've been doing in an alpine setting for the last few years. And it is fun. As a matter of fact, I'm looking forward to this summers moderate class 5 climbing in Dusy Basin, before becoming a big wall slave again starting next year.

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 7:07 pm
by Jack Daniels
John - I just sent you an email, but it looks like I missed the deadline to respond. Oh well, maybe some other time?

Back in partner search mode...

<i>before becoming a big wall slave again starting next year.</i>

Craig - no wall plans for Sept/Oct?

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 7:12 pm
by Craig Peer
Nope. Vacation time is totally overbooked this year. Only so much to go around. It's the same story every year. Next year is a tug of war between 2 weeks in Italy ( and hopefully climbing the Matterhorn from the Italian side before drinking some wine ) and maybe 2 grade V's. This year I'm content to " practice climb " ( based on the theory that everything other than a big wall is merely practice for a big wall !)! 3 weeks vacation is not enough!!

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 7:49 pm
by John
Jack - Sorry about the sudden change in plans. My cousin called me last night out of the blue and I only get to see him 3-4 times a year. He loves to fish but his family life dictates that he fishes less than 5 times per year now. Quite sad really IMO but it will be good to spend some time with him again. If you're open to climbing together on Sunday, let me know. If I can't find any partners for this Sunday, you'll probably be able to find me behind Curry Village fiddling with the Silent Partner. Have to figure out how to lead with that eventually ;-)

Dave - I don't really want to discuss free soloing too much until Monday as I need to have an unclouded mind ;-) Actually, I'm guessing that rope soloing may be even more dangerous than free soloing if you don't know how to work the device!

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 8:24 pm
by Jack Daniels
John - No worries. I'll drop you a line about this Sunday.

<i>everything other than a big wall is merely practice for a big wall</i>

Craig - Sounds a bit like the Warren Harding big wall training program: Eating, drinking wine, and loafing. It worked for him!

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 8:30 pm
by depclimb
The eating, drinking of beer and loafing program worked for Don Whilans also.

Re: How was Your weekend?

PostPosted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 8:30 pm
by Craig Peer
We don't call it Decadent Outdoor Adventurers ( or D.O.A. ) for nothing ( a division of Directly Off the Couch Crowd - the old D.O.C.C. climbing club )..............

Hey, I've got a big wall for you and Dave - Bastille Buttress on Lone Pine Peak - perfect fun!