SummitPost.org

Does anyone know the official policy of the use of Diamox on Aconcagua? I’ve seen postings stating that Diamox is prohibited. I asked my guide company and they replied that there are no restrictions. Does anyone have any recent firsthand knowledge?

No restrictions that I know of. Climbed it recently and one member in our party used it without issue, nothing on the application about it being prohibited either. I think it is fine, I don't really think they care to be honest.

Yeah, it's not like the park rangers will search your gear. The people in my group who used it seemed to sleep better. I didn't like the tingley feeling in my fingers.

Hi
I climbed Aconcagua in February. I carried Diamox and a small range of other drugs for high altitude problems. There is no way anybody is going to prohibit the carrying of standard emergency treatment!

Diamox is recommended to treat acute mountain sickness and as part of treatment for Pulmonary Oedema (Nifedipine or - believe it or not - Viagra/Cialis are more effective). It is also recommended as prophylaxis against AMS in susceptible individuals or such as rescue workers having to make a fast ascent to altitude. It is not a substitute for a proper acclimatisation program, but can ease minor discomfort at a dose of half a 250mg tablet at night or twice per day. For actual AMS or HAPE this dose can be doubled. (HACE is best treated with Dexamethasone - but the best treatment for all 3 is descent!!).

On Aco I didn't plan to take Diamox unless I needed to - but above 5000m I was troubled by periodic breathing at night (although O2 sats well within range for the heights I was at) - so I took half a tablet just at night, with good effect. At this dosage I wasn't troubled by tingling or excessive diuresis. I slept reasonably well right up to my highest camp up at 6000m, where I spent 2 nights.

If you want to know more about this here is a link to an article I wrote last year:

http://www.summitpost.org/expedition-medicine/675753

Best wishes, Mark

So Don, I'm really curious about where you saw this info. The idea of diamox being officially prohibited on a mountain that's almost 7000 meters is so bizarre that I'd really like to know where you found it.

Just Curious,
JimS

Thanks for all the input. My question wasn’t as clear as it should have been. I wanted to know if there were any restrictions related to taking Diamox prophylactically. I’ve used it before and have had good luck with it. I still plan to follow a sensible acclimatization schedule. (e.g. 4-5 night in basecamp). I didn’t expect my pack to be searched but I also wanted to be honest with the medical team.

I saw the reference to Diamox restrictions in a couple places but the most official notice was posted on William Marler’s Normal Route description on Summitpost.

“There is a permanent medical tent with up to four doctors at basecamp. Their services are free. You are now required to take a physical. They will take your blood pressure, listen to your lungs, and measure your pulse oxygen levels. If you do not measure up you will not be allowed to travel higher. At this moment in the permit office in Mendoza there is a sign warning that the use of Diamox is prohibited. The warning includes the message that the doctors have the right to send you packing if they find you are using this medication. If you intend on using Diamox, you have been advised. This presents a problem IMHO. The doctors at the camp will ask you what medications you are taking. To make an informed diagnosis on anyone's condition requires truthful disclosure from the patient”.

http://www.summitpost.org/normal-route/155610

Mark, Thanks for the outstanding article you posted on Expedition Medicine. I printed it a few weeks ago and my hardcopy version is covered in circles, underlines and notes.

Don

All good points. I also want to point out that although there are physicians and/or medics at Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina, you likely won't encounter any higher up on the mountain in case you get into trouble above BC. If you decide to pack Diamox, no one will be searching your bags to look for it. Good luck whatever you decide. I carried Diamox on my trip.

Woodie