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Eastern Sierra - moderate technical routes

Matthew Holliman

Posted by Matthew Holliman on Mar 23, 2006
Page Views: 4171

Activity Details

Date: After Jun 1, 2006
Location: California, United States
City or Place: Bishop
Skill Level: Beginner, Intermediate
Categories: Hiking, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing
Partner Status: Need Partners


Looking for people to join me for the following this summer/fall. For some, I already have partners lined up, but others are just climbs I still have on my wishlist:

Technical rock:
Mt. Sill (Swiss Arete)
Temple Crag (Venusian Blind)
Matthes Crest traverse
Charlotte Dome (South Face)
Cathedral Peak (SE Buttress)/Eichorn Pinnacle
Bear Creek Spire (North Arete)
Shepherd Crest (NW Face)
Lone Pine Peak (NE Ridge)

Feather Peak (Feather Couloir)
North Peak (North Couloir)
Mt. Dana (Dana Couloir)
Mt. Gilbert (North Couloir)

Scrambles/short technical rock:
(I'd prefer to solo most of these routes, but may rope up for short sections, e.g. especially the crux sections on the EF)
Morgan Pass-Cox Col traverse (including Bear Creek Spire NE Ridge)
North Pal (via the U-Notch/chimney)-Polemonium-Sill traverse
Mt. Whitney (East Face)
Mt. Darwin (North Face)
Thor Peak (Stemwinder)
Mt. Humphreys (East Arete)

I prefer to do stuff car-to-car in a day whenever possible (i.e. pretty much always in the Sierra). Lead up to about 5.6 or so, follow to about 5.8... I hope to improve that this summer!

I also have a few long (in some cases, very long) dayhikes on my agenda for the summer, or next summer if I don't squeeze them in this year. I don't need partners for any of these, but figured I'd post them here in case anyone was interested:
Devils Crags #1
Black Kaweah
Charybdis/Black Giant
Picket Guard Peak
Norman Clyde Peak
Tehipite Dome
Mt. Stanford/Mt. Ericsson
Seven Gables (East Face)
Glacier Ridge
Mt. Darwin (West Ridge) -- if I don't climb the North face first
Mt. Carl Heller (East Arete)
Mt. Reinstein
Mt. Ruskin


Post a Comment

Sam MillsCount me in!

Sam Mills

I'll climb some of those routes with you. Several are on my list also. I'll be available for many four or five day weekends. Keep me updated on the dates.

Posted Mar 24, 2006 3:58 am

zelitolong High Sierra moderates


Hi Matthew,
at Tollhouse last Nov I had meant to suggest doing some of these routes over the summer, both technical and non-. My list is similar--Two Eagle Pk, Mt. Robinson, Russell, Clarence King, Long Twisting Rib....Keep me posted as the summer approaches.
Posted Mar 24, 2006 4:52 am

Matthew Hollimancool!

Matthew Holliman

Good to hear from you guys (and good to see you on SP, Mike). You listed a bunch of routes that I should have included on here, too, but they slipped my mind... there's some 10-pitch 5.6 route on one of those peaks (Two Eagle or Robinson, I can't remember which) that Secor says is exposed and good rock, and I really want to climb... the Long Twisting Rib is pretty high on my to-do list too.

I'll be in touch with you all once I get back from China. I'll be out in the Sierra pretty much every weekend from mid-June onwards, so I'll be up for almost any route, any time.

P.S. Sam... "five day weekend"? sounds like a cunningly disguised vacation to me.
Posted Mar 24, 2006 1:31 pm

jaydawgdig it...


i like the climbs you've listed and i'm interested in joining you out there. keep me posted with your schedule...

Posted Mar 26, 2006 3:45 am

Matthew HollimanRe: dig it...

Matthew Holliman

Will do. I see you're down in LA... I currently plan to move down there once I get back from China, probably some time in June or so. We'll have to hook up then.
Posted Apr 1, 2006 1:29 am

Dave DalyHell Yes!

Dave Daly

Count me in on doing Black
Kaweah (a second time) and NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire (includiing the Morgan Pass Traverse).

Are you up for doing Mt. Stewart (5.6)?
Posted Mar 31, 2006 11:09 pm

Matthew HollimanRe: Hell Yes!

Matthew Holliman


Yeah, I'd love to do that route on Mt. Stewart. Maybe sometime in Aug or Sep would work?
Posted Apr 1, 2006 1:28 am

mjrangelBlack Kaweah


Tell me more about your plans with Black Kaweah. I haven't set a date yet, but I will be in the area for sure some time between July and August. I'm planing on spending a week out there and will be climbing Lawson Peak. I would love to join you on Black.
Posted Apr 4, 2006 1:55 am

Matthew HollimanRe: Black Kaweah

Matthew Holliman

It'll depend on when Dave wants to do it (see the post above yours). I haven't decided yet, but I'll probably do it out of Crescent Meadow, midnight start. I'm just going from memory as I don't have a map handy, but I think the west or southwest ridge would be the most direct route from that direction.

Sometime in Aug or Sep would probably work best, once I'm in decent shape from the preceding couple of months and the snow's completely gone. (Mineral King may be a shorter approach, but I also have a Mt. Kaweah dayhike on the agenda out of MK this year, so I'd like a bit of variety).
Posted Apr 4, 2006 7:09 am

Bob BurdStanford

Bob Burd

If you can hold off, I was going to put Mt. Stanford on the Challenge for 2007.
Posted Apr 6, 2006 10:01 pm

Matthew HollimanRe: Stanford

Matthew Holliman

Okay, I'll move it down the wishlist. If I find enough partners for the technical routes I want to do, my SPS completion deadline will probably slip, so it will be less of a priority for me to get to some of these peaks this year...
Posted Apr 7, 2006 12:20 am

mjrangelMK in a day!


How do you plan on doing Mt. Kaweah in a day? That sounds pretty insane!
Posted Apr 10, 2006 8:19 pm

Matthew HollimanRe: MK in a day!

Matthew Holliman

Same way I undertook outings like Milestone/Midway, Volunteer/Pettit, Tunemah/Finger, and Eagle Scout/Stewart in a day last summer... start really early, walk a long way, and get back late.

I wouldn't have put it on the agenda, but a friend wants to dayhike it and so I'm obliged to accompany him. (From what I recall, I think the mileage and gain for Mt. Kaweah out of Mineral King is quite a bit less than the stats for Milestone/Midway out of the Shepherd Pass TH were, so I think it should be doable with no problems. Might even be enjoyable).
Posted Apr 10, 2006 11:18 pm

mjrangelRe: MK in a day!


Good luck Matthew,

And let me know when you'll be heading to Black. Maybe I can meet you guys there if I head out earlier.
Posted Apr 12, 2006 3:56 am

VladislavNorman Clyde Peak & Mt. Darwin


These are also on my list (that you helped me put together). Let me know when you plan for Norman Clyde and West Ridge of Darwin (if you do this one). I planned to do both as dayhikes as well.
I am also interested in Eichorn Pinnacle and Cathedral Peak SE Buttress if you do these late in the season.
Posted Apr 18, 2006 6:29 pm

Matthew HollimanRe: Norman Clyde Peak & Mt. Darwin

Matthew Holliman

Absolutely. I hope to talk a friend into climbing either Eagle Face or Twin Pillar on Norman Clyde, but I'm not sure when. The same friend and I also discussed the possibility of trying the Norman Clyde-Middle Pal traverse sometime, but that would be on a second trip, and I don't know if it'll happen this year or not.

I don't have concrete plans for when I'll climb Darwin (this could be any time), or Cathedral/Eichorn (this will depend on when partner(s) are available), but I'll drop you a note when I'm considering them.
Posted Apr 22, 2006 9:08 am

Matthew HollimanRe: sounds great

Matthew Holliman

Cool, I'll be in touch when I'm back in California.
Posted May 6, 2006 2:05 am

ttricheCharlotte car-to-car


If you want to run a shuttle and go from Onion Valley to Charlotte Dome, climb it, and exit to Road's End, drop me a line. I'd be equally interested in doing it as a ski tour (the only way I would ever bother with Feather or Darwin is as a ski descent... Darwin is actually on this week's to-do list for me).

When you're settled in Los Angeles, drop a line. Many objectives in common (and a bunch of yours are climbs that I greatly enjoyed in the past, eg. Matthes Crest). SE Butt of Cathedral/Eichorn is actually pretty fun as a solo, BTW.
Posted May 1, 2006 5:27 am

Matthew HollimanRe: Charlotte car-to-car

Matthew Holliman

Excellent, a Charlotte Dome shuttle/car swap sounds awesome! I'll get in touch once I start figuring out my summer schedule so we can figure out how/when to do this.

One of my friends really enjoys soloing the SE Buttress... but I'm not good enough to do that yet. I'd like to at least lead it once or twice before I try. :-)
Posted May 6, 2006 2:09 am

Matthew HollimanRe: Rock-ice weekend

Matthew Holliman

No need to suggest that, Rob... you were already penciled in for that exact weekend this summer/fall whether you knew it or not. :-)
Posted May 8, 2006 5:52 am

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