I feel so validated and warm!
I was afraid to write that 5.10b thing, but I did feel like the first move off the belay was that hard. Once you "stand up" (I think with your feet at about eye level with the belayer) it's fine, but until then (shudder).
You know, I'd have to say that this 2-pitch region we are focused on was similar to the feeling on the off-width part of the Gendarme on the N Ridge of Stuart: short, but committing thus guaranteeing the memory of a lifetime. But I didn't enjoy the whole route as much as the others you mentioned (haven't done Direct Exum). The beginning was loose and crappy, the middle was a relief ("whew, we know where we are"), the crux was golden/scary, but I felt like the end of the route was deflected. I wanted to end by going straight up the ridge, and it seemed possible to do so (but ~5.10-5.11?). But fear of the unknown plus some clouds got us to trend right for the exit. I felt mildly disappointed about that.
This picture would be a lot better if the climber continued on the crest to the top. But only a short way above the route veers to the right. I'd venture that your feelings about the route would have to be confirmed by all and sundry if a direct finish is found!!
Now you *really* make me wish to visit the PNW!