Misha - Mar 8, 2004 3:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Saturday, not Sunday :0As far as I know, this is a Saturday slab. Sunday slab is located exactly below the parking area.
mrolph - Mar 8, 2004 4:01 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0You may well be right Misha. I was going by Dave D's description: "Tollhouse is also host to a good chunk of beginner lead routes located at the Sunday Slab area (single pitch, well-bolted 5.7's)." Not having a copy of the guide book, I can't tell for sure which slab this is...but the one we were climbing sure matches the description.
Misha - Mar 8, 2004 5:44 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0I think that Sunday slab also has a bunch of 5.7 bolted routes :)
I guess we need Dave D. to clarify this for us...
Dave Daly - Mar 8, 2004 5:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0The old school locals of Tollhouse (ie Cam Donahue, Dwight Kroll, Barry Chambers) have called both slabs "The Sunday Slabs Area". The SEKI guide mentions a non-descrip verse regarding the Sunday Slab Area on pg. 14. I haven't heard of anyone referring to the left slab (ie Shattered Dreams, Taking A Bath With Strangers etc) as the "Saturday Slab". The right slab features Directisima......the very first bolted route at Tollhouse (1972). Does that help clear things up?
Misha - Mar 8, 2004 6:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0Dave-
I got the Saturday slab name from Randy Wenzel who is one of the locals/climbed in the area for many years. He was climbing/camping with us this weekend.
He is a great guy and a fantastic climber. BTW, he lives in Visalia. Perhaps, you two should hook up (he has heard about you before)
Dave K - Mar 8, 2004 6:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0That particular route was run-out (I didn't lead it though). 25-30 ft. before the first bolt is encountered.
Misha - Mar 8, 2004 6:52 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0You are on the "Hippo in a bathtub" route... It is probably the crappiest one (from the pro perspective) on that slab
Dave Daly - Mar 9, 2004 6:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Saturday, not Sunday :0Actually, that route and others like it, were the norm for Tollhouse until Mark Spencer came along and grid bolted the whole slab with BS bolts! Anyway, I believe runout conditions aid in the abiltiy to push beyond the mental barriers of ones mind. Several years back (after Spencer had "stainless steeled" the area), a few of us were gonna go out there and chop them. I was later convinced to leave it as is so that fledgling leaders could build up their lead experience. We ended up adding 'Taking A Bath With Strangers' as grudge f*ck statement!
Wanna try "crappy"? Try 'Balls' (5.9). On my first leading it, I was on the third pitch (3 bolts, 175 feet!!). I was trying to get to get to the thrid bolt when my feet cut out from under me.........50 feet later, I was mared with rope burns and road rash! I came back a year later to finish it up without incident.
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