GARIN PEAK (3451m) from West

GARIN PEAK (3461m) from "Garin Lake's Slope". from Pointe du Couiss (=Blizzard's Point) (2661 m): West and South Walls and three Ridges( from right South, SW and N-NW. Always from right to left:

S-SW Spur or Buttress: routes 09/11 on 1897 (W. C. Compton/A. V. Valentine - Richards and Swiss mountain guides Alexander Burgener and Siegfried Burgener Group route), on 1978 (Cardellina Ferronato route) and 1980/81? (Brevini & Company route).

South Face: route 12 on 1978 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Camillo Roberto Ferronato) and 13 on 1973 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Camillo Roberto Ferronato; the last excluding in tracks).

SW Edge and various of opening variants routes to Garin's "Great Shoulder" or Quota 3207/8: route 16 on 1986, (Osvaldo Cardellina/Alessandro Cardellina/Christian Cardellina/Giuseppe Lamazzi/Domenico Demichelis/Danilo Blanc/Giogio Pinna route); route 17 on? unknown (unknown); route 18 on 1966 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Dario Sergio Cardellina); routes 19 on 1856? ( in First Ascent Absolute from Aosta Town? ) also 1875 (Officer Cesare Pavese and two alpine soldiers route, in descent (first traverse without specifications of Garin Peak, in "L'Alpinista 1875"). Certainly on 1894 ( F. W. Oliver/C. Baker/C. Hiatt and famous Swiss mountain guide Alexander Burgener route and on 1902 ( Abbot Maria Joseph Henry and of Charvensod mountain guide Grégoire Comé, with erroneous opinion and wrong persuasion of be the first).

West Face: routes 20/25 on 1936 (Ansel Falcoz, lone, route), 1984 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Alessandro "Lupetto" Casalegno route), on 1979? (Ezio Savin/Silvano Grisoni route), on 1992 (Osvaldo Cardellina, solo, route), on 1984 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Giuseppe Lamazzi route), 1966 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Dario Sergio Cardellina route).

N-NW Ridge and N Edge and opening's variants: routes 26 on 1968 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Gianni Junod/Giovanni De Paoli/Giorgio Boglione route), route 27 (direct line), on 1998 (Osvaldo Cardellina/Emilio Bertona route) and 27bis on? unknown (by unknown) or 1856? (in first acent absolute from Aosta Town? ) also nearly certainly 1875 (Officer Cesare Pavese and two alpine soldiers route).

From Valaisan Mount: routes 28 and 28bis on? unknown or 1856 also nearly certainly on 1875 (Cesare Pavese & Company route? ) .

From Valaisan's Pass: route 30 on 1894 (from Lussert's Valley) (F. W. Oliver/C. Baker/C. Hiatt and famous Swiss mountain guide Alexander Burgener route, in descent); route 31 on 1898 from Arbolle's Valley (Agostino Ferrari and of Cogne mountain carrier B. Glarey route, in ascent). Partly traced to left and coincident with routes 28/29, in terminal part.

From Garin Pass: route 29 (partly marked in terminal part) on 1938/40? (in the Forties) (Toni Ortelli/Nando Quagliolo route).

Outline right: Summit of Fleurie Point (3258/60 m).

In bottom: Summit of Testa Nera (2819/20 m).

See texts.

Photo

by

Emilio Bertona 2008.