33 ROUTES OF MONTE EMILIUS (3559m) First Part

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.67941°N / 7.38239°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Sign the Climber's Log


(Walls and Arêtes) Mount Emilius is a big pyramid made up of four ridges and four faces; one of these splits into S-SW and W-SW above the Frozen Lake – which is what remains of the ancient Emilius Glacier. The majestic Northern Side of the mountain overlooks the Arpisson deep Valley and its two glaciers (the Eastern and the Western one); on the other hand, the mountain also casts its shadow onto the Town of Aosta with a 3000-metre drop. In the East, a 500 m. vertical face extends out into the Blantsette Glacier, whereas another SE wall, which is less steep and less abrupt than the former, projects onto the Laures Valley with its four lakes (Lower, Long, Superior and Frozen Little Lake) north of Brissogne. In the South, its slopes are less steep and extend out into the Arbolle Valley by means of big moraines, which bear witness to the activity of the ancient pre-existing mass of ice. A long SW spur is generated by its W ridge; starting from this latter location, a rock-climbing route equipped with ropes going from Bivacco Federigo (9 places) to Carrel Pass was created in the 2004 Summer. As far as topographical, geological and architectural aspects are concerned, the mountain has 10 BASIC or CRUCIAL ROUTES; furthermore, all existing routes (i.e. high, average or low difficulty) have been analyzed.
EMILIUS's NORTH WALL from Northern. (Pareti e Creste) Il Monte Emilius è una grandiosa piramide con 4 creste e 4 pareti, una delle quali si sdoppia in S-SW e W-SW sopra il Lago Gelato, residuo dell'Antico Ghiacciaio dell'Emilius. Domina con la sua imponente parete N il Vallone dell'Arpisson con i suoi 2 ghiacciai (Or. e Occ.) e proietta la sua ombra dall'alto di 3000 metri di dislivello sulla Città di Aosta. Verso levante lascia cadere una parete E verticale di 500 metri sul Ghiacciaio Blantsette, mentre un'altra SE, meno scoscesa e difficile, scende sempre sul Vallone des Laures ed i suoi quattro laghi (Dessous o Inferiore, Lungo, Dessus o Superiore ed al Laghetto Ghiacciato), sopra Brissogne. A S i suoi versanti sono meno ripidi e si proiettano verso il Lungo Vallone di Arbolle con grandi morene, a dimostrazione dell'attività dell'antica massa glaciale pre-esistente. Un lungo Contrafforte SW viene partorito dalla sua cresta W, ove dall'estate 2004 è stata tracciata una Via Ferrata con partenza dal Bivacco Federigo Zullo (9 posti) al Col Carrel. Dal punto di vista topografico-geologico e ARCHITETTONICO la montagna è costituita da 10 VIE FONDAMENTALI o di BASE; inoltre abbiamo analizzato tutte le vie esistenti: di alta, media e bassa DIFFICOLTA'.


A) – S-SE Arête (Normal Route of "Three Capuchins" 1823): Giovan Battista Defey, Lorenzo Cerise and a company unmentionable; ? th?, 1823; FIRST WINTER (ABSOLUTE) Lino Binel, Amedeo Berthod and Leonardo Cossard.; Feb 15th, 1934; difference in level 315/25m; as F or F+ (It. 24). B) S Slope (South Little Couloir and W Crest, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jul 08th, 1984; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 360/70m; (50°/42°/38°); AD+/PD-. C) – W-SW Great Pillar and W Crest ("Direct Line to Grey Jump", new route 1986): Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Oct 11th, 1986; in day from Pila, round trip; diff. in level 400m (350m + 50m); AD (It. 27). D) – NW Ridge and W Arête ("Old Route on N Wall of Little Emilius" 1897 and "Via Ferrata-2004"): Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele, Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich, Valtournanche Mountain Guides; from Arpisson Alp; Aug 29/30th, 1897; First Winter and first lone, Nerino Gobbo; winter 1940/41; d. in lev. 650m (450+200m); AD+/D-/AD- (It. 01,D/23). E) – N Wall (N Éperon) and W Arête ("Binel-Crétier" 1927): Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier; Aug 20/21th, 1927; first solo: Gianni Pais Becher 27.07.1967; first solitary repetition Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina; Jul 12th, 1998; in day from Pila; d. im lev. 720m (680+40m); D-/D+/AD+ (It. 08,D/23). F) – Triangolo Nero and N Edge ("Black Triangle" and N Edge 1960): Angelo Bozzetti and Pietro "Piero" Rosset, Mountain Guides of Valpelline; Sep 10/11th, 1960; first repetition Dante Bibois, Alfredo Grappein and Ettore Grappein Cogne's Mountain Guides; Jul 22/23th, 1983; d. in lev. 590m (400+190m); ED (It. F/14) G) - NE Ridge and N Edge ("of Three Curates" 1906): Abbots Georges "Louis" Bonin, Pantaléon Bovet, Joseph Henry and Engineer Nino Tofani; Aug. 01/02th, 1906; from Barons Beck Peckoz Les Laures Hunting House; First Winter: Pietro "Piero Rosset", Mountain Carrier of Valpelline and Franco Garda; Feb th?, 1949; in day from Comboé; d. in lev. 420/30m; AD-/AD+/AD- (It. G/16). H) - E Wall ("Chabod-Gervasutti" 1935): Renato Chabod and Giusto Gervasutti; Jun 25/26th, 1935; first repetition: Pietro "Piero" Rosset, Valpelline's Mountain Carrier and Franco Garda; Summer th?, 1946; from Huntig House Beck Peckoz at The Laures; First Winter: Abele Blanc, Cogne's Mountain Guide and Carlo Lucianaz Jan 01/2th, 1989; first solo from Les Laures: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian; Sep 04/05th, 1961; first lone repetition: Ezio Donzel; Aug 15/16th, 1975 (new route of left); from Les Laures d. in lev. 500m; D+/TD- (It. H/18). I) - E Arête ("of Brissogne" 1902): Abbot Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé, Charvensod's Mountain Guide; Sep 16th, 1902, in descent and ascent; from Comboé Alpage; first lone: Engineer Nino Tofani Jul th?, 1906; from Les Laures Valley; d. in lev. 420/30m from brother the Charrey/Norat Cross (3162m) (600/20m in integral from base); F+/PD- or AD-/AD+, in edge integral (It. 32). L) – SE Wall ("of Laures" and over the Icy Loch 1988): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Aug 06th, 1988; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 500m; AD+/PD- (It. 33).

Routes important for difficulty (23) and other with various variants

(1) N Wall and W Arête (of Little Emilius): Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele, Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich Valtournenche Mountain Guides; Aug 30th, 1897; difference in level 650m (450+200m); AD+/D-/AD-. (2) N Wall and W Arête (Right Route-"Spirito Libero" - "Free Spirit",new route): Ezio Marlier, solo; Nov 18/19th, 2006; diff. in level 720m (610+110m); (IV°, 4, M4); TD-/TD. (3) N Wall and W Arête (Right Couloir, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Aug 09th, 1998; in day from Pila; diff. in lev. 720m (640+80m); (50°, 60°, 65°) D+/TD-/D-. (4) N Wall and W Arête (Pillar of Right, new route): Renato Quendoz and Pino Trevisan; Sep 27th, 1970; 1° replay Roberto Arbaney and Danilo Châtrian; Oct th?, 1982; FIRST in winter (First Winter absolute of wall) Alberto Chéraz and Corrado Framarin, Valpelline Mountain Guides; Dec 30/31th, 1984; d. in lev. 720m (680+40m); (III°, IV°, V°); D-/TD+/AD+. (5) N Wall and W Arête (Central Couloir, new route): Anselme "Ansel" Falcoz and Massimo Mila; Summer th?, 1940?; first repetition and first solo: Alberto Sciardi; Jun 30th, 1985; d. in lev. 720m (680/90+40/30m); (45°/60°); AD+/D-/AD-. (6) N Wall and W Arête (Central Couloir and Pillar of Left, new route): Giulio Adolfo "Dulo" Ourlaz and Emanuele Tosana; Autumn th?, 1942; d. in lev. 720m (690/700+30/20m); (50°/60°); AD+/D-/AD-. (7) N Wall and W Arête (Pillar of Left, new route): Lino Binel and Amilcare Crétier; Aug 20/21th, 1927; first lone: Gianni Pais Becher; Jul 26/27th, 1967; first solitary repetition: Christian Gianni Ilario Cardellina; Jul 12th, 1998; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 715m (710+15m); AD+/D/AD. (It. or basis E). (8) N Wall and N Edge (Pillar of Left and diagonal to N Edge, terminal part): Lino Binel, Renato Chabod and Amilcare Crétier; Aug 09/10th, 1926; d. in lev. 720m (620/30+100/90); AD+/D/AD-. (9) N Wall (Direct Line, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; 31.08.1980; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 720m; (45°/60°); AD+/D/AD.
<font color=green><b>EMILIUS s</FONT> <FONT COLOR=BLUE>NORTH Face, Direct Line Route</font></b> August 1980
Emilius s NORTH WALL Exit Out 1980
EMILIUS's NORTH FACE, "Direct Line to Summit Route", new route, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA-Camillo Roberto FERRONATO on AUGUST 1980 (10) N Wall (Superdirect to Summit, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, Sandrino "Lupetto" Casalegno, Maurizio Castellan and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Jul 28th, 1984; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 720m; AD+/D+/AD.
EMILIUS's NORTH FACE "Superdirect Route", new route, by Osvaldo CARDELLINA-Camillo Roberto FERRONATO, on JULY 1984 (11) N Wall and N Edge ("Mammellone route" – "Great Breast" and N Edge, terminal part from Black Triangle, new route): Giulio Adolfo "Dulo" Ourlaz and Emanuele Tosana; Apr second half, 1942; d. in lev. 670m (490+180m) (; AD+/D-/AD-.
  • . *** These four Routes submitted in Chronological Order since Sep 10/11th, 1960 until Oct 25/26, 2006, for better illustrate Black Tiangle HYSTORY. EMILIUS BLACK TRIANGLE, as if MAGIC FIRST ABSOLUTE ROUTE in NORTH FACE, by Angelo "Angelino" BOZZETTI-Pietro "Piero" ROSSET, on SEP 1960
    Triangolo Nero...
    EMILIUS's BLACK TRIANGLE two NEW ROUTES, by Aldo CAMBIOLO-Pier Luigi SARTORE N-NW WALL "Phantom Gully", on JUN 1990 and NORTH WALL "Direct Route", by Roberta VITTORANGELI-Aldo CAMBIOLO, on AUG 1993 ***
    Il Triangolo Nero del...
    The Black Triangle 3378m
    Le Pareti Nord...
    (12) *** N-NW Face
    ("Couloir Fantasma"-"Phantom Gully", new route): Aldo Cambiolo and Pier Luigi Sartore; Jun 16/17th, 1990; d. in lev. 460m; (45°/85°); TD-/ED/TD+. (13) *** North-NorthWest Face ("Senza Parole" – "Bocconi Amari", new route): Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier; Oct 25/26th, 2006; first repetition Nov 06/07th, 2006; Roger Schàli (CH) and Robert Jasper (D); d. in lev. 400m; (V°/M7/WI6/); ED. (14) *** North Wall (Direct Route, new route): Aldo Cambiolo and Roberta Vittorangeli, Valpelline's Mountain Guides; Aug 01th, 1993; difference in level 385m; (6°/6b/VII°/VII°+, "in libera" - "free climbing"); ED.
    EMILIUS BLACK TRIANGLE, in N-NW FACE and by piolet-traction, new route "Senza Parole" - "Bocconi Amari", by Rossano LIBERA-Ezio MARLIER. on Oct 2006 (15) *** FIRST ASCENT ABSOLUTE of EMILIUS's BLACK TRIANGLE. North Wall (Via Angelo Bozzetti-Piero Rosset '60): Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti and Pietro "Piero" Rosset, Valpelline's Mountain Guides; Sep 10/11th, 1960; first repetition: Dante Bibois, Alfredo and Ettore Grappein, Cogne Mountain Guides; Jul 23th, 1983; d. in lev. 400m; (V°+/A1); ED/TD+. (It. or basis F).
    (16) NE Arête ("Three Curates Crest"): Abbots Georges "Louis" Bonin, Pantaléon Bovet, Joseph Henry and Nino Tofani; Aug 02th, 1906; First Winter: Pietro "Piero" Rosset, Valpelline Mountain Carrier and Franco Garda Feb th?, 1949; from Comboé Alp; first solo: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian d. in lev. 420/30m; AD-/AD+/AD-. (It. or basis G). (16bis) NE Ridge and N Edge (Integral on thread of Edge, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Aug 08th, 1976; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 510m; D-. (17) NE Arête and E Wall (Via Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti, new route): Angelo Bozzetti, solo; Summer th?, 1958; d. in lev. 420/30m; AD-/D+. (18) E Wall (Central Route, Via R. Chabod-G. Gervasutti): Renato Chabod and Giusto Gervasutti; Jun 26th, 1935; First Winter: Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz Jan 01th, 1989; first solo: Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, Superdirect Variant, new route; 05.09.1962; first solitary repetition with new Route to Left: Ezio Donzel; 16.08.1975; d. in lev. 500m; D-/D+/TD-. (It. or basis H). (19) E Wall (Direct Variant): Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda; Feb th?, 1946; d. in lev. 500m; TD-. (19 bis) E Wall (Superdirect Variant, new route): Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" Zulian, solo; Sep 05th, 1961; d. in lev. 500m; D-/D+/TD. EMILIUS's EAST WALL from LOWER LAURES LAKE and, to right or more in North, NEW ROUTE Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO-Renato QUENDOZ on JULY 18th, 1969.
    HISTORY EAST FACE HISTORY since August 1929 with the Death of CHARREYS BROTHERS and CINO NORAT, during an attempt first ascent until the: First Ascent Absolute, by GIUSTO GERVASUTTI-RENATO CHABOD on June 1935. first repetition, by PIERO ROSSET-FRANCO GARDA on Summer 1946. NE Ridge and Terminal Part of Face, by ANGELO "ANGELINO" BOZZETTI on Summer 1958. First Lone, by GIOVANNI MATTEO "AGOSTINO" ZULIAN on September 1961. New Route in Right, by ILARIO ANTONIO GARZOTTO-RENATO QUENDOZ on July 1969. Diagonal Route in Right and N Edge, by GUIDO MATTEOTTI on September 1971. Second Solo and New Route to Left, by EZIO DONZEL on August 1975. For to finish with First Winter, by ABELE BLANC-CARLO LUCIANAZ on January 1989. ***
    EMILIUS s <font color =blue>EAST FACE</font> Exit Out
    <b><font color=green>EMILIUS</font> (3559m) from <font color=green>LEPPE s Point</font> or from <font color=blue>Southeast</font> and <font color=blue>Laures s Higher Lake</font></b>
    Emilius s  in the SUMMIT and Surroundings EMOTIONS & SUGGESTIONS 17th, at sunset
    <b>From <font color=purple>Salés Pass</font> (3308m)<b>
    Monte Emilius <i>3559m</i> and Blantsette glacier  seen  from the couloir leading to Colle di Salè <i>3025m</i>
    (20) E Wall (Right Route, new route): Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Renato Quendoz; Jul 18th, 1969; d. in lev. 500m; D+/TD/D+. (21) E Wall (Left Route, new route): Ezio Donzel, solo; Aug 16th, 1975; d: in lev. 500m; D+/TD-. (22) E Wall and N-NE Edge (Right Diagonal Route to N Edge, new route): Guido Matteotti, solo; 30.09.1971; d. in lev. 500m; D-/D+/AD-. (23) W Arête (from North Face of Little Emilius): Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele, Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich; Aug 30th, 1897; first Winter and first solo: Nerino Gobbo; in winter 1940/41; d. in lev. 200/220m; AD-. (It. or basis D). (23bis) W-NW Arête Mount Ròss of Comboé and crossing to Little Emilius and W Crest (from Colle Carrel): Abbé Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé; Sep 16/17th, 1902; first Winter, first solo W Ridge (from Carrel Pass?, more probably); Nerino Gobbo; winter 1940/41; d. in lev. 650m; AD-." Via Ferrata" from 2004. (23ter) W-NW Arête and W Ridge (Direct and Integral from Becca di Nona, including Red Jag or Gendarme Rosso also Red Tower 3150m, Upper Reds Towers and "Grey Jump", from Carrel Pass): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Aug 01th, 1976; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 980/1000m from Becca; 740/50m from Federigo Zullo Bivouac; AD+/D-/AD-. (24) S-SE Arête (Normal Route of "Three Capuchins"): Giovan Battista Defey, Lorenzo Cerise and a company unmentionable; 1823; First Winter (First Absolute in Winter of mountain): Lino Binel and Amedeo Berthod and Leonardo Cossard; 15.02.1934; from Pila; d. in lev. 320m; F/F+. (It. or basis A). VARIANT 24bis, new route: S-SE Arête (W Side): Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato, Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Luigi Neyroz; Jul 18th, 1965, in descent; from Arbolle/E'cho's Loch/Gelato Lake; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 230/240m; F+/PD-; (no traced in photo and between 24quater and 2; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24quater). VARIANT 24ter, new route: S Slope and S-SE Arête (W Side, in final part): Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti; Jun 22th, 1968, in descent; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 290/300m; F+/PD-; (no traced in photo and between 24 and 24quater; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24quater). VARIANT 24quater S Slope (Great Couloir to Right): Abbots Maria Joseph Henry, ? Bionaz and Grégoire Comé, Charvensod Mountain Guide; Sep 02th, 1902, in descent from Summit to Gelato Lake; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 290/300m; (30°/35°); F+/PD-; (no traced in photo and between 24 and 25; (It. 24, 24bis, 24ter and 24 quater). EMILIUS SOUTH SLOPE and SOUTH-SOUTHEAST ARETE, "West Side of the Crest in terminal part", New Route, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Renzo Botti on JUNE 1968
    (25) S Slope (Little Couloir and W Crest, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jul 08th, 1984; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 360/70m; (50°/42°/38°); AD+/PD-. (It. or basis B). (25bis) S Slope (S Spur - S Slope and W Crest, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Jun 10th, 1990; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 390/400m; (48°/43°/38°); AD+/PD-. (25ter) S-SW Wall and S Slope (Direct Line on S-SW Ribbing, new route in right): Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; June 19th, 1994; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 500m (300+200m); AD-/AD/AD+/PD-/F . (25quater) S-SW Little Pillar and S Slope (Direct Line Little Pillar to Summit, new route in right): Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; October 07th, 2009, in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400m (250+150m); AD-/AD/AD+/D-/D/D+/PD-/F . (26) S-SW Wall of Great Pillar and W Arête (Integral and Pillar Direct Line to "Grey Fall" and W Crest, new route in left): Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; Oct 11th, 1986; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 400/410m (350/60+50m); AD+/AD/AD+. (It. or basis C). (27) W-SW Wall and S-SW Slope and W Crest ("Passaggio Corona" – "Corona Passage"): Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey and Grégoire Comé; Sep 09th, 1875; d. in lev. 330/40m (190+100+40/50m); PD/PD+/F+. First solo: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone, Oct 04th, 1992, in day from Pila. EMILIUS's S-SW Face of Great Pillar "Direct to Grey Fall", new route to left, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Danilo Garzotto, on October, 11th, 1986 and S-SW Ribbing "Direct to Summit", new route to right, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Roy Cardellina-Danilo Garzotto, on JUNE 1994
    <b>33 ... <font color=green>M. EMILIUS</font> (3559m)<font color=red>W-SW WALL  &  West Ridge, direct and new route</font> 1986</b>
    33 ROUTES  EMILIUS s  (3559m)  W-SW FACE
    MOUNT EMILIUS South-southwest Wall First Ascent, 1986
    First Ascent on MOUNT EMILIUS  S-SW Face June 1994
    <b>Climbing in S-SW Ribbing to <font color=green>Emilius</font> <font color=brown>on 1994</font></b>
    (28) S E'peron (Little Emilius and W Crest, new route) and W Arête: Osvaldo Cardellina, lone; Oct 13th, 1968; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 430/40m (195+25+210/20m; AD+/PD+/PD-/AD-. (28bis) S-SW Slope and W Arête: (Lake Gelato, SW Slope of "Little Saddle" 3325m and W Crest, new route): Giovanni Battista Bozzino and Carlotta "Tina" Bozzino, in descent; Sep 12th, 1911; d. in lev. 360/70m (150+210/20m); AD-/PD-. (29) SW Buttress and W Arête: (Trident of Comboé -Lake Gelato Points - Mount Ròss of Comboé - Little Emilius and W Arête, new route): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Aug 04th, 1974; in day from Pila, round trip; d. in lev. 1250/1350m from Arbolle Lake; PD+/AD+/AD-. (30) W Slope of Ròss Pass and S Crest (Ròss Pass W Slope, new route) - S-SW Arête Mount Ròss of Comboé W Crest: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Jul 11th, 1977; in day from Pila; d. in lev. 1150m, for crossroads 2526m Gros Scez's; PD+/AD-/AD+. (31) N Wall of Mount Ròss and W Arête: Abbot Joseph Henry and Grégoire Comé, Charvensod Mountain Guide; Sep 17th, 1902, in descent; d. in lev. 630m (370m to Mont Ròss de Comboé+260m); AD-/PD+/AD-. (32) E Arête: ("Brissogne's Crest"): Abbot Joseph Maria Henry and Grégoire Comé, Mountain Guide of Charvensod; Sep 16th, 1902, in ascent from Comboé Alp to Summit and in descent from Summit, round trip; first solo Engineer Nino Tofani Jul th?, 1906 d. in lev. 600/20m in Integral from base; 420/30m from Charrey/Norat Cross (3162m); F+/PD- or AD-/AD+, in edge integral. (It. or basis I). (33) SE Wall (of The Laures): Osvaldo Cardellina, solo; Aug 06th, 1988; in day from Pila crossing Three Capuchins Pass, round trip; d. in lev. 480/500m; AD+/AD-/PD-. (It. or basis L).
    EMILIUS s SOUTHWEST Buttress, First Ascent Absolute and Integral 1974
    EMILIUS s SW Buttress, First Ascent 1974: Descendig from Comboé s TRIDENT

    EMILIUS S-SW BUTTRESS "Integral Spur to Summit", new route, on AUG 1974. WEST RIDGE Integral Routes from Nona's Becca and Carrel Pass, on AUGUST 1976 and from Ròss Pass, on JULY 1977, by Osvaldo Cardellina-Camillo Roberto Ferronato
    EMILIUS s 1976 INFERNAL WEST RIDGE and Integral from Carrel Pass
    EMILIUS s INFERNAL & Integral stormy WEST RIDGE 1976
    Direct to MONT ROSS de COMBOE and Integral West Ridge to EMILIUS 1977
    On EMILIUS s Old and Original WEST Ridge at present & since 2000  via  ferrata  also  iron route  (SIC !)

    Landscapes of the Group by EMILIUS

    Moving the cursor one can see the overall scene
    Moving the cursor one can see the overall scene

    Part. A)- HISTORY EMILIUS'S - NAMES'S and General Bibliography

    A- in RESEARCH/STUDY TOPONYMIC) - Synthesis historical of name mountain's and all names Summit's of Emilius's Mountain Chain. In ancient times: 1) - Mons Silvius, in "Alpes Cottiae", generically to lie South of Aosta Town, region - area of Gran Paradiso (Map of Switzerland by Salamanca, 1555). 2) - Iseran, generically all the same (ancients maps). 3) - Mount Soana, all the same remarks (ancients maps). 4) - Berrio Chamosser (Berrio=stone, in dialect "Patois Valdôtain"), in 1223 (Paper History Monsignor Duc and "Le Ràye di Solei", on page 261). 5) - Monte Chamosier, 1289 or 1298 (all the same remarks and one third document of 1288). 6) - Picco delle 10 ore (of tithe hour Peak or of ten hours), old name. 7) - Monte Emilius. Ascent of mountain by Emilia Argentier and company whence the name, 1839 (various books). 8) - Pointe de Vallé or Pic du Vallé, 1852 (Carta dello Stato Maggiore Sardo/Sardinian Staff Map). 9) - Mont Emilius, 1852 (Sardinian Staff Map, sheet-plate XXX°). 10) - Mont Pie, Jul 31th 1871 (in honour of Pope Pio IX°). 11) - Monte Emilius, (various Maps of I.G.M./Institute Military Italian). 12) - Monte Aemilius, ("Guida delle Alpi Occidentali" Vol. II° Graie e Pennine, II° Part by Giovanni Bobba and Luigi Vaccarone 1896; Edit. Section Turin of C.A.I., May 25th, 1896). Mountain Diary by Amilcare Crétier "Ascensioni in Valle d'Aosta 1921-1933", pages 8, 13, 24, 25, 29, 34, 64, 73/75; Edit. Nuovi Sentieri Bologna Section's Verrés and of Library, July 1993. C.A.I. Magazine n° 7/8, 1929. 13) - Monte Emilius, PRESENT and CURRENT DENOMINATION in all books and maps.
    Il Monte Emilius (3559 m)
    Emilius Mountain Chain & Surr. from Sénevé EMO & SUGG  <font color=purple><b>NEW DAWN</font></b>
    Il Monte Emilius (3559 m)
    Il monte Emilius
    (Ridges and Spurs in South/North topographic clockwise system. Official Toponymy in Italian (I.G.M. Maps; Military Geographic Institute), in French and in dialect "Patois Valdôtain" (R.A.V.A. Maps; Region Autonomous Aosta/e Valley's) and to do a translation, of the meaning - sense, into English ). From South to West/North/Easth Sector (in central position Mount Emilius): a) - Punta or Testa Tsaplana or Tête de Chaplane also Cha Plane (= Flat Head) or Testa Chiapana or Chapiana or Tîta Tsa Planne also called Pointe Chaplan(n) e - Punta di Arpisson - Punte Coppi? or Pointes Coupées d'Arpisson (= Cuts Points ) also called Coup(p)ì (SW; Central and NE) - Torre di Arpisson or Tour d'Arpisson also Tór de l’Arpessöun (Arpisson Tower= Wides Pastures's Tower) - Pointes de Lavà (= of the Pastures Lavà's Points), (three littles Summits) - Punta Fiorito or Pointe Fleurie (= a Flowery Meadows Point) to Punta or Pointe also Pic Garin (= Garin's Peak). b) - Quota 3207/8m~ "Spallone della Garin" or "Épaule de la Garin" (= Garin's "Great Shoulder") to Garin Peak. c) - Guglie or Aiguilles (= Arbolle's Pinnacles) d'Arbole or Arbolle, quota 2972m - Campanile or Clocher (= Arbolle's Bell - Tower) d'Arbolle, quota 3096m to Punta Garin. d) - Punta de la Pierre (= "of the Stoneslab dressing Point" ) - Punta del Drink or Pointe du Drinc (= Drink's Point) - Pointe du Couïs(s) (= Blizzard's Point) also called Pic de la Tombe (= "Gravestone Point") - Piatta di Gre(i)von (= "Grevon's Platform or Flatform") - Punta di Mom(n)pers (= "Mountpierced Point") - Pointe de Tsa Setze or Tsasetze or Chasèche (= High and dry "Pasture's Point") to Punta della Valletta (= of the Little Valley Point). e) - Appendages of Southwest: Punta di Va(e)daille or Pointe Vedaille to Pointe du Drinc; Punta di or Pointe du Tsavanis (= High Pastures Vanis's Point ), quota 2815/6m~. f) - Punta del also Pointe du Dard or Becca di R(i)en (= "Worthless Point" of "nothing" other - wise of "copper"? = "Copper's Point", in the presence of Ancient Coppermine). (Sharp observation of Eusèbe Imperial, primary schoolteacher and ex Mayor Charvensod d'En Haut Commune's) - Punta Valletta (= Little Valley Point) Pointe de Ponteilles - Se(i)gnal Sismonda (= little Pyramyd Sismonda) in crest from Chamolé Pass to Pointe du Dard (like this baptized from Canon Jean - George Carrel dedicatee Angelo Sismonda, friendly Geologist and Naturalist. In the Summit, perimeter ruins of Pavillon/Observatory Richard Henry Budden, English mountaineer and Naturalist "tireless propagandist of Alpine Clubs" in the Alps). (by Charles Bich and Aimé Gorret in "Guide de la Vallée d'Aoste"; Edit. Casanova in Turin, 1896) - Pointe de Replan (= Two Tableland Point) - Costa di Chamolé (= Abounding in water Pastures) - Testa or Cresta Nera also Tête Noire or Crète Noire (= "Side - Coast - Black Head or Crest") also called, in olds times, Aöuille Nera (= "Black Spire-Pinnacle") or Noire or Neira - Mont Bellefaçe(a) (= a Good Slope Mount, a good Pasture Land) to Punta della Valletta and Punta di Pian Bessey (= a pasture Tableland's Point). g) - Dente della Becca or "La Dent" (= The Becca's Jag), Quota 2736m~ in N-NE Ridge of Becca di Nona - Becca di Nona or Pic Carrel or Picco delle undici ore, old name (= "Eleven Hour or of the Eleven Hours?") salso called Chantel Glarisey, Glariesy or Mont Glariety (= under Catholic Church rule Mountain), very ancients names - "Dent Rouge" (= Red Jag) du Mont Röss, quota 3150m ("Red Tower", by buxlex in SP Sep 24th, 2007) - Mont Röss de Comboé - Piccolo or Petit (= Little Emilius) to Monte Emilius or (See History of name; Part/A). h) - Trident de Comboé (= Comboé's Trident), three Summits (SW 3051/7m; Central 3070m~; NE 3083m, consisting in eight littles summits) - Punte del Lago Gelato (various littles summits, six mains) (= Frozen Lake's Points) to Mont Róss (= Comboé Red Mount) de Comboé. i) - Mont Père Laurent (= dedicated to name of the Father Laurent)- Becca di Seneva or Le Cordagnë (= Shoemaker Keep) - Testa Blantsette (not certainly = White, but = Festuca Capillata, Gramineae with difficulty to cut. Acute and learned remark by Toni Ortelli, President of C.A.I. Aosta, in revision - editing of "Guida del Monte Emilius", Osvaldo Cardellina, Dec 1978) or Mont Blantset or Blanchet also called, in olds times, Becca (Tîta) des Boucs (=Ibexs's Head;ibex ibex goats) to Monte Emilius. l) - Tour de Salé or Salì also called, in ancients times, Mont des Laures - Becca di Salé - Petite Roise or Roése or Röese also called, in ancient times, Roizà or Ruèze (= glacier) - Punte (N and S) Gianni Junod (= dedicated to name of the mountaineer Gianni Junod, dead on Aiguille Croux - Mont Blanc in 1969) or Central Roise - Grande Roise also called Testa Plana or Tîta Plana (= Flat Head) - Punta Ilario Antonio Garzotto (= dedicated to name of the mountaineer Ilario Antonio Garzotto, dead on Aiguille Croux - Mont Blanc in 1969) - Punta(e) (three) di Leppe or, in very ancients times, Becca di Leppy (for entire of Roises Group name) - Mont Vallonet (= "Little Valley's Mount") to Saint Marcel or Coronas (= dedicated to name of the mountaineer Giuseppe Corona for first crossing in winter from Cogne to Saint Marcel Pass, on 1875)between Grauson/Lussert (Cogne) and Vallon Fenetre(=Window's Valley) in "High" Saint Marcel Valley. m) - Punte (three) di Leppe (See above Laures) - Pointe de Lussert (See above) - Mont des Laures - Punta or Pointe di (des) Laures or Lores (from root L'Ei(y), L'Ei(y)v, L'Ei(y)ve (= water for various of Laures Lakes) to Punte Rosse dell'Emilius (= Red Points) (E, Central and W Summits). n) - Punta or Pointe or Pic Garin (= Garin Peak) - Mont Valaisan or Vallaisan or Vallesan (= of the Inhabitant valley’s) - Punte Rosse dell'Emilius (three Summits) - Punta dei Tre Cappuccini (Capuchins = friars) - The Three Capuchins Sommets (S, Central 3255/60m~, N) to Monte Emilius. o) - Torre di (del) Grauson or Tour or Mont Grauson also Tór Groson (= "Great Valley's" Tower) - "Gran Gendarme" del Grauson or "Grand Gendarme du Grauson", quota 3217m (= Grauson's "Great Gendarme") - "Gran Torre Dentellata" del Grauson or "Grande Tour Dentelée" du Mont Grauson, quota 3224m (= Grauson's "Indented Tower") - "Torre Bifida" di Lussert or "Tour Bifide" de Lussert, quota 3218m (= Lussert's "Forked Tower") - "Gendarme Rosso" di Grauson or "Gendarme Rouge" du Grauson, quota 3130m~ (= Grauson's "Red Gendarme") to Punta or Pointe also Garin Peak (= Garin's Peak).
    Becca di Nona


    Graphic work black and white, colour photograph and Landscape by Antonio Giani. In addition I want to thank Prof. Giovanna Rivezzi for the translation of the text (for the Overview) from italian. Moreover collaborations and contributions (reports, connections, remarks, private informations, snaps and photographs) by: Roberto ANDRIGHETTO, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and photographer naturalist, of Aosta (priv. inf. and connections Sep 29th, 1994 and Dec 23th, 2009; snaps and action photos 1994). Roberto ARBANEY, mountaineer of Aosta (priv. inf. Sep 27th, 2003 and Jan 04th, 2010; reports Sep 27th, 2003 and Dec 04th, 2010). Emilio BERTONA († September 20th, 2010, Monte Zerbion), mountaineer of Aosta (snaps, pictures and action photos 1998/2010). Giulio BERUTTO († 2005, Turin), mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Turin and Author-Writer mountain guides books (priv. inf. 1999). Walter BIANQUIN, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Pian Felina (Charvensod) (action photos 1965). Valdo BINEL, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta (priv inf. 1977/78; action photo dad's Lino). Abele BLANC, mountain guide Cogne and Himalayst, conqueror of all fourteen 8000 and two times the Everest (priv. inf. Oct 09th, 2009). Renzo BOTTI, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of ont Suaz/Aosta (action photos 1968/1973). Riccardo BOTTI, tripper-hiker and mountaineer of Pont Suaz/Aosta (action photos 1968). Angelo "Angelino" BOZZETTI († March 03th, 1967, Aiguille Noire de Péuterey - Mont Blanc), Valpelline mountain guide (priv. inf. 1966 and Feb 1967; reports 1966 and Feb 1967; by wife "Mountain Diary until 1967 (unpublished) " and B&W photo in the Sixties). Ruggero BUSA, mountaineer and mountaineer skiing, of Senin (Saint Christophe) (snaps, action photos and connections 1968/69). Aldo CAMBIOLO, Valpelline mountain guide and icefallsclimber (priv. inf. and reports Nov. 15th, 2009 and Dec, 02th 2009; remarks Nov/Dec, variaous years, 2009). Alessandro Giusto CARDELLINA, mountaineer, research worker naturalist, physiotherapist and Author-Writer of graduation Thesis "Variazioni glaciali nel Gruppo del Monte Emilius" ("Glacials Variations in the Mount Emilius's Mountain Chain"), Studies University of Turin, Faculty of Mathematical, Phisic and Natural Sciences/in Naturals Sciences Course-Degree, Supervisor Prof. Michele Motta; Turin Apr 24th, 2009) of Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Coutateppaz (Saint Christophe)(reports 2009; connections 2010; action photos 1986/2009). Christian Gianni Ilario CARDELLINA, mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Grand Pollein (Pollein) (priv. inf. 1998 and 2004;action photos 1990/91 and 1996). Dario Franco Sergio CARDELLINA, mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod)/Etolin (Quart), (priv. inf. from 1964; reports 1964/66; connections 1964/66; action photos 1964/66). Alessandro "Lupetto" CASALEGNO, mountaineer and icefullsclimber Pian Felina (Charvensod) (inf. priv. 1980/86; action photos, pictures 1980/1986). Maurizio CASTELLAN, mountaineer of Jovençan/Valpelline (action photos 1984). Massimo CENTELLEGHE, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and Engineer, of Aosta (priv. inf. 1965/67 and action photos 1967). Andrea CENTO, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta (priv. inf. 2009 and 2010) . Danilo CHATRIAN, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta. At present Chairman-President of the boards of directors Stations a winter ski Resorts Pila. (priv. inf. Jan 04th, 2010; report Jan. 04th, 2010). Alberto CHERAZ († August 16th, 2009, Tour Ronde-Mont Blanc),Valpelline mountain guide (priv. inf. Jun 08th, 2009; reports Jun 08th, 2009). Nicola COLAJANNI, mountaineer of Bari, Supreme Court of Cassation Judge and Professor of University of Bari "Aldo Moro" (action photos 1997/2007). Remo COME, mountaineer and sky runner of Charvensod d’en Haut (priv. inf. Dec 08th, 2009). Marco COSSARD († January 16th, 2013, Aosta), mountaineer La Crete's (Villeneuve) (connections 1971/95; snaps, pictures and action photos 1971/1996). Ezio DONZEL, mountaineer of Charvensod d'en Haut (priv. inf. and reports 1977/78). Anselme FALCOZ († May 31th, 1999, Aosta), mountaineer Aosta and Engineer (priv. inf. 1977/78; reports 1977/78; connections and remarks 1977/78). Camillo Roberto FERRONATO, mountaineer and minerals digger of Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1972/2010; snaps, pictures and action photos 1972/1996. "Mountain Diary 1965/66" by brother Walter 1997). Walter FERRONATO († February 24, 1997, Aosta), mountaineer Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1965/66; reports 1965/66; connections 1965/66; action photos 1965/66). Lino FORNELLI, mountaineer and Author-Writer mountain's guides books of Turin/Saint Pierre (priv. inf. 1998/2005; reports 1998/2005; connections 1998/2005). Corrado FRAMARIN, of Quart/Valpelline, mountain guide of Valpelline (priv. inf. Jun 08th, 2009). Giorgio FRUTTAZ, tripper-hiker of Aosta (action photos 1978). Luigi GADIN, mountaineer and techn Teacher of Aosta/La Salle (priv. inf. 1976/2004; action photos 1976). Maurice GAILLARD, Fénis, Valpelline's mountain guide (priv. inf., connections, reports and remarks Nov 15th and 27th, 2009). Danilo GARZOTTO, mountaineer and tripper-hiker Pian Felina (Charvensod) (priv. inf. 1969/2010; pictures and action photos 1985/86 "Mountain Diary 1964/69)" by brother Ilario, in several times). Ilario Antonio GARZOTTO († Sep 29th, 1969, Aiguille J. J. Croux-Mont Blanc), mountaineer (priv. inf. 1964/69; reports and connections 1964/69; "Mountain Diary 1964/69 (unpublished) " 1964/69; snaps, pictures and action photos 1964/1969). Antonio GIANI, mountaineer and alpine photographer (priv. inf. 2004; basic's pictures of the work Jun/Dec 2009; graphic work Jun/Dec 2009; snaps photographs and action and photos since Dec 16th, 2004 until Mar 2010). Corrado GONTIER, of Grand Brissogne/Saint Pierre, Valsavarenche's "Esprit de Montagne" mountain guide (priv. inf. and remarks Dec 22th and 31th, 2009). Eusèbe IMPERIAL, mountaineer, Primary Schoolteacher President-Chairman of the Society Cooperative Haut Charvensod and ex Mayor of Commune Charvensod (priv. inf. 1984/86,;Dec 20th, 2009 and Jan 10th, 2010; reports 2009; connections 2009; action photos 1984. "Summit's Books 2003/2007" Vol. I° since July 20th, 2003 until July 30th, 2007; Vol. II° since Juny 28th, 2005 until Aug 09th, 2006.). Gianni JUNOD († Sep 29th, 1969, Aiguille J. J. Croux-Mont Blanc), mountaineer (priv. inf: 1967/69; reports 1967/69; "Mountain Diarys 1964/69", Vol. I° and II°, 1964/69 (unpublished), pictures and action photos 1964/69). Giuseppina JUNOD, tripper-hiker of Aosta (priv inf. various years and Dec 24th/31th, 2009. Jan 02th/03th/04th, 2010. Jan 03th, 2010 delivery of the "Mountain Diarys 1964/69", Vol. I° and II°, by brother Gianni, 1964/69 (unpublished). Property Junod Familiy. Priv. inf. Feb 20th, 2010). Giuseppe LAMAZZI, mountaineer of Saint Chistophe-Capoluogo (priv, inf. 1971/2005; connections 1971/2005; action photos 1971/1996). Fausto LORENZI, of Valpelline, mountain guide Valpelline, ski instructor and Himalayst (Mil. Expedition Everest 1973. Nat. Expedition of C.A.I. Lotshe 1975, Exp. Head Riccardo Cassin) (priv. inf. Jan 05/06th, 2010). Carlo LUCIANAZ, mountaineer, mountaineer skiing; Headmaster of skiing, mountaineering and climbing Section Aosta C.A.I. of Charvensod d'en Haut (priv. inf. Oct 06th, 2009). Franco LUCIANAZ, mountaineer, ski instructor and minerals digger of Valpettaz (Charvensod du Meitin) (priv. inf. 1987, 1996 and 2009; connections 2009:action photos 1987 and 1996. Ezio MARLIER, mountain guide and icefallsclimber Valpelline (priv. inf. Aug 2007; Nov and Dec 18th, 2009. Jan 06th, 2010; reports 2007 and 2009; action photos in CD Dec 19th,2009 of the Nov 2006). Guido MATTEOTTI, mountaineer Aymavilles (priv. inf. 1977/78 and 2009; reports 1977/78.Oct. 09th and Nov 30th, 2009; "Mountain Diary until 1978" (unpublished), by Guido Matteotti 1978; actions photos 1971). Luigi NEYROZ, mountaineer, tripper-hiker of Pian Felinaz/Saint Pierre (action photos 1965). Toni ORTELLI, († 2000, Schio), Founder - Promoter and mountaineer of C.A.A.I., President Section Aosta of C.A.I. (since 1866, second in Italy) Founder - Promoter/Editor Chief of Magazine "Montagne Valdotaines" of Section C.A.I. Aosta since 1974 and Author famous mountains song "La Montanara" (reports 1977/78; connections 1977/78; Redition - Editing whole of Work "Guida del Monte Emilius", by Osvaldo Cardellina; Edit. O. Cardellina in Aosta, 1978). Adolfo Giulio "Dulo" OURLAZ († August 17th, 2009, Aosta), mountain guide of Aosta (priv. inf. 1977/78; reports 1977/78; connections 1977/78). Marinella OURLAZ, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta/Châtillon (priv. inf. Dec 09th, 24th, 2009 and Feb 20th 2010; action photos dad's 2009 of the Fifties and Sixties). Raffaella PELLIZZARI, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta) (priv. inf. 2009; action photos 1980). Sergio PESSION, mountaineer and hunter of Quart (priv. inf. 2004 and Dec 21th, 2009; reports 2004 and Dec 21th, 2009; action photos 2010 of the 1984). Battista PIEILLER, mountaineer Fénis (priv. inf. 2004 and 2009; reports 2004,Dec 14th and 17th, 2009 and Jan 19th, 2010;action photos Jan 19th, 2010 of the July 1984 and August 2009). Sandro PLAT, mountaineer and tripper-hiker of Aosta (action photos 1980). Renato QUENDOZ, mountaineer and skiing mountaineer (priv. inf. 1967/1978; reports 1969 and 1977/78; connections 1977/78; action photos 1967, 1968 and 1969). Pietro "Piero" ROSSET, mountain guide Valpelline, ski instructor, hunter and gym Teacher of Aosta (priv. inf. and reports 1973, 1977/78 and 2006/07; reports 1977/78/2006/07. Dec 24th,2009 and Jan 16th, 2010; action photo 2007 of the 1946). Elio SALUARD, mountaineer and hunter of Grand Brissogne (priv. inf. 2009; reports 2009; action photo 2010 of the 1982). Ezio SAVIN, mountaineer of Cogne (priv. inf. 2009). Alberto SCIARDI, mountaineer of Aosta (priv. inf. Sep 26th, 2003 and Jan 21/22th, 2010; reports Sep 26th, 2003 and Jan 21/22th, 2010; remarks and connections Jan 21/22th, 2010. "Mountain Diary until 1987",Vol. I° (unpublished). Action photos Jan 2010 of the 1980, 1983, 1984 and 1985). Roberto STELLA, mountaineer, mountaineer skiing and Himalayst (Mil. Expedition Everest 1973); winning of Mezzalama Trophy, 1971, with brothers Aldo Stella and Gianfranco Stella; Mayor General Italian Alpine Troops-Military Training Center of Aosta); at present Chairman-President of the board of directors Stations a winter ski Resort La Thuile's (Aosta Valley). Priv. inf. and connections since Aug 05th, 2001 until Dec 24th and 31th, 2009; Jan 05/06th, 2010; connections 2001/2010. Action photos Aug 02th, 2001/Aug 24th, 2004. Giuseppe "Pino" TREVISAN, mountaineer and Engineer of Aosta (priv. inf. 1969, 1970, 1972 and 1977/78; reports 1977/78; action photos 1968/69). Gianfranco VICENTINI, mountaineer, tripper-hiker and Prof-Headmaster of Aosta (action photos 1997/2005). Lady Vincenzina ZUCCA Capuzzo, housewife of Saint Christophe-Rouye Village (priv. inf. Aug 2005). Giovanni Matteo "Agostino" ZULIAN († July 25th, 2012, Aosta), mountaineer and hunter Grand Brissogne-Luin and Grange (Saint Marcel) (priv. inf. 1977/78, Nov 25th and 30th, Dec 06th, 2009. Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; reports 1977/78, Nov 25th and 28th; Dec 06th, 16th and 20th, 2009. Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; connections 1977/78,2009, Jan 01 and 15th, 2010; Ménabreaz Hut Books 1955/2009 (unpublished); action photos 2010 of the1984).



    Children refers to the set of objects that logically fall under a given object. For example, the Aconcagua mountain page is a child of the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits.' The Aconcagua mountain itself has many routes, photos, and trip reports as children.