This illustrative table that summarizes, from exclusively mountaineering point of view, it's happened on Mount Emilius to date, at least as it is given to know. It is a more concise and more immediate vision of the one published in
Part Third of "33 ROUTES", where other facts and events to enrich the exhibition, but also "weigh down" the reading, making it less instant watching together. Eliminated the references or research, have also fused the two distinct sections, as regards the part by inserting the winter the first only three absolute ascents of the mountain and listing only the first ascent facing ridges and walls. It is in this way slimmed scanning the main climbs, exposing them since 1823, probably the first year as much likely ascension, at least from the point of view of mountaineering continuing to this day, because the Summit could already be achieved by hunters or by villagers, but this do not know, as he did not know the party Defey-Cerise & Company, who in their report uses the conditional uncertain:
" At the age of Sixteen, I climbed with my friends .. M.M.D... and M... a more high peak, the peak of ten hours for some time called Mount Emilius. Maybe my two friends and me we made the first ascent. the memory of this great team of my adolescence was presented to me when I found myself on top of her humble neighbor peak eleven o'clock ... "
Start of Emilius History, formerly known as Pic or Mont du Vallée, so that codest name has survived in Valé's Tableland, between the foothills of the Western extreme of the same with the Becca di Nona, the "peak of the 10 hours" (or 10 hours?) . then the absolute vacuum for over half a century, as if the Emilius was gone, vanished into thin air ... it was not until September of 1875 to find him, when the famous mountaineer Joseph Corona, Venanzio Defey (another Defey!) and driving with mule Grégoire Comé of Charvensod explore the Slope West-southwest tracing an alternative route to the "Crest of the Three Capuchins", on what will become the Corona Passage, so as not to be famous, probably, never been used.
Well as the other peaks of the small group of Emilius seems enjoys of better health: here we have to wait until this fateful 1875 to see the famous Jean Antoine Carrel, winner of the Italian side of the Matterhorn, through the Mountain Chain of Roises, carrying out the first ascent with Angelo Lucat and Albino Decaroli; always in this year's Captain Cesare Pavese of the 9° Alpine Company, with two soldiers, salt Point Garin for the Northwest Ridge, in what, to all intents and purposes, can be considered the normal route (more probably the Pavese's Route). This long period of time is only interrupted by the curiosity of the priests, who with the Abbots Balthazar Chamonin and Pierre Chanoux rise in 1856, with no known route but with departure from Aosta Town, first this beautiful pyramid. The first, Curé of Cogne, previously set to a student in August of '42, he had climbed the nearby and famous Tersiva Point, on which 17 February 1875, the Corona of this blessed with companions completed the first winter. In his honor the Col Saint Marcel became, thanks to its prestigious crossing, always in Winter from Cogne to Saint Marcel, Col Coronas, where that they are terminal, which possessive, to the Hill of the Corona. Some British raids, Georges Yeld in particular, accompanied by the famous Swiss Guides Alois, Siegfried and most importantly, Alexander Burgener rage at the end of the century Garin and the Tower of Arpisson. They are the harbingers of the new mountaineering discovery of the early twentieth century, where more Abbots & Priests are the masters. Promises a
new Epic story with the mountaineering research and discovery, starting, of course, by the ridges. The Abbé Joseph Maria Henry, right tutelary deity of alpinism in the Valle d'Aosta ("The Mountaineering et le Clergé Valdotain," 1905, "Mountaineering", 1908, "Guide of the Valpelline", 1925 and "La Raye di Solei", 1935) reflects the heritage of Canon Jean George Carrel.
(The latter was Mountaineer, Naturalist and Botanical, and the founder of the Section of the C.A.I. Aosta, the second in Italy after this of Turin, in 1966, still bears his name in 1857 on the hill between Becca and Mont Ròss. He was also dedicated to the transformation of the name of the Becca of Nona in Pic Carrel, which, however, was not successful and was soon abandoned).
Along with the sympathetic Reverend Bionaz, Photographer and Naturalist, the Guide with mule of Charvensod Grégoire Comé, the "colossus" Louis Bonin, Pastor of Roisan, and a strong Pantaleon Bovet "deer hunter from the muscles of steel" and Pastor of Doues, began the systematic exploration of the other three ridges of Emilius, still virgin: the West from Carrel Hill, the East from The Laures Vallon and the North-northeast Edge, the margin between the Walls North, Emilius's Black Triangle and East, an exploit dated 1906 together with the young Engineer of Saint Marcel Nino Tofani.
These performances, but especially the explosion of the First World War, stop the movement, as if to catch his breath. And we take it as well as detailed information, consult us after TABLEAU ...
Again NORTH FACE from the Northern HORIZON.
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Questa tavola illustrativa riepiloga quanto, dal punto di vista meramente alpinistico, é avvenuto sul Monte Emilius insino ad oggi, almeno per quanto é dato a saperne. Risulta un lavoro più conciso e di maggior immediata visione di quello pubblicato nella Parte Terza di "33 ROUTES", ove altri fatti ed eventi arricchiscono l'esposizione, ma altresì ne "appesantiscono" la lettura, rendendone meno istantanea quella d'insieme. Eliminati i riferimenti bibliografici o di ricerca, si son inoltre fuse le due distinte sezioni, inserendo per quanto concerne la parte invernale le sole prime tre ascensioni assolute della montagna ed elencandone esclusivamente la prima ascensione rivolta a creste e pareti. Si é in siffatto modo snellita la scansione delle salite principali, esponendole dal 1823, probabile anno della prima altrettanto probabile ascensione, almeno dal punto di vista alpinistico arrivando sin ai giorni nostri; infatti la Vetta poteva essere stata già raggiunta da cacciatori o da valligiani, ma questo non é dato a sapersi, come lo misconosceva la comitiva Defey-Cerise & Company, che nella loro relazione utilizza il condizionale dubitativo:
" A l'age de seize ans, j'avais gravi avec mes amis M.M.D... et M.... une cime plus élevée , le pic de dix heures appelé depuis quelque temps le Mont Emilius. Peut-être mes deux amis et moi avons-nous les premiers fait cette ascension. Le souvenir de cette belle équipée de mon adolescence s'est présenté à moi lorsque je me trouvai sur le sommet de son humble voisin, le pic de onze heures ... "
Inizia la Storia dell'Emilius, anticamente detto Pic o Mont du Vallé, tant'é che codesto toponimo é sopravvissuto nel Pian du Valé, tra le propaggini estreme Occidentali dello stesso con la Becca di Nona, il "picco delle 10 ore" (oppure delle ore 10?). Poi il vuoto assoluto per oltre mezzo secolo, quasi che l'Emilius fosse sparito, svanito nel nulla... Bisogna attendere il Settembre del 1875 per ritrovarlo, quando il celebre alpinista Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey (un altro Defey!) e la guida "con mulo" Grégoire Comé di Charvensod esplorano il Versante Ovest-sudovest, tracciando un percorso alternativo alla "Cresta dei Tre Cappuccini", su quello che diverrà il Passage Corona, tanto famoso da non esser, probabilmente, mai stato utilizzato. /p>
Pur le altre cime del piccolo gruppo dell'Emilius sembra non godino di miglior salute: anche qui dobbiam attendere questo fatidico 1875 per vedere il celeberrimo Jean Antoine Carrel, vincitore del versante italiano del Cervino, attraversare la Catena delle Roises, effettuandone la prima salita con Albino Lucat ed Angelo Decaroli; sempre in quest'anno il Capitano Cesare Pavese della 9° Compagnia Alpina, con due soldati, sale la Punta Garin per la Cresta Nordovest, in quella che, a tutti gli effetti, può esser considerata la Via Normale. Questo lungo spazio di tempo é solamente interrotto dalla curiosità dei preti, che con gli Abati Pietro Baldassarre Chamonin e Pierre Chanoux salgono nel 1856, con itinerario non noto ma con partenza da Aosta, per primi questa bella piramide (e probabilmente per la Via Pavese). Il primo, Curato di Cogne, precedentemente insieme ad uno studente nell'Agosto del '42 aveva salito anche la vicina e famosa Tersiva, sulla quale il 17 Febbraio di questo benedetto 1875 il Corona con compagni compie la prima invernale. In suo onore il Colle di Saint Marcel diventò, anche grazie ad una sua prestigiosa traversata da Cogne a Saint Marcel, sempre in Inverno, il Col Coronas, dove quella esse terminale sta, qual genitivo sassone, per colle del Corona. Alcune scorribande Inglesi, Georges Yeld in particolare, accompagnate dalle celeberrime Guide Svizzere Alois, Siegfried e, soprattutto, Alexander Burgener imperversano sul finire del secolo sulla Garin e sulla Torre d'Arpisson. Sono i prodromi del nuovo alpinismo di scoperta di inizio Novecento, dove sempre Preti & Abati la fanno da padroni. Si prospetta una nuova Epopea con l'alpinismo di ricerca e scoperta, iniziando, logicamente, dalle creste. L'Abbé Joseph Maria Henry, vero Nume Tutelare dell'Alpinismo della Valle d'Aosta ("L'Alpinisme et le Clergé Valdotain", 1905, "Alpinisme", 1908, "Guida della Valpelline", 1925 e "La Ràye di Solei", 1935) raccoglie l'eredità del Canonico Jean George Carrel.
(Questi fu Alpinista, Naturalista e Botanico, nonché fondatore della Sezione di Aosta del C.A.I., la seconda in Italia dopo quella di Torino, nel 1966; ancor oggi dal 1857 porta il suo nome il colle tra Becca e Mont Ròss. A lui fu dedicata anche la trasformazione del toponimo della Becca di Nona in Pic Carrel, che però non ebbe successo e venne presto abbandonata).
Insieme al simpatico Reverendo Bionaz, Fotografo e Naturalista, alla Guida "a mulo" di Charvensod Grégoire Comé, al "colosso" Louis Bonin, Parroco di Roisan, ed al forte Pantaléon Bovet "cacciatore di camosci dai muscoli di acciaio" nonché Parroco di Doues, iniziò l'esplorazione sistematica delle altre tre creste dell'Emilius, ancora vergini: la Ovest dal Colle Carrel, la Est dalle Laures e lo Spigolo Nord-nordest, margine tra le pareti Nord, il Triangolo Nero ed Est. Un'exploit datato 1906, insieme al giovane Ingegnere di Saint Marcel Nino Tofani.
Queste performances, ma soprattutto l'esplosione della Prima Guerra Mondiale, arrestano il movimento, come se si volesse prender fiato. E lo prendiamo pure noi rimandandovi a dopo il TABLEAU...
EMILIUS's ALL FIRST & WINTER
In order rotating counterclockwise as from the Emilius starting through the S-SE Crest said as "of the Three Capuchins" or Normal Route
First on the Summit: Giovan Battista Defey with Doctor Laurent Cerise and other friend; 1823? in ascent from Pila and in descent.
First Winter: Lino Binel, Amedeo Berthod and Leonardo Cossard; February 15th, 1934, in ascent from Pila/Arbolle and descent.
SE-SE Crest of "Three Capuchins" or Standard Route: G.B. Defey with Doctor Cerise and Others; 1820?, in ascent in ascent from Pila/Arbolle and descent.
In Winter: Lino Binel, Amedeo Berthod and Leonardo Cossard; February 15th, 1934, in ascent in ascent from Pila/Arbolle and descent.
SE Crest and S Slope (Variant A): Ilario Antonio Garzotto, Osvaldo Cardellina, Walter Ferronato and Luigi Neyroz; July 18th, 1965, in descent, after ascent through S-SE Crest.
S Slope and SE Crest (Variant B): Osvaldo Cardellina and Renzo Botti: June 22th, 1968; in descent, after ascent through S-SE Crest.
S Slope (Direct Route): Abbot Joseph Maria Henry, Rev. Bionaz and Grégoire Comé; September 02th, 1902, in descent from Summit to Frozen Lake.
S-SW Slope (Little Couloir): Osvaldo Cardellina; July 08th, 1984; in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Frozen Lake.
S-SW Slope (Route of Left): Osvaldo Cardellina, Roy Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; June 19th, 1994, in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Gelato Lake.
S-SW Slope (S Spur, S-SW Slope and W Crest): Osvaldo Cardellina; June 10th, 1990; in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Frozen Loch.
S-SW Wall: Osvaldo Cardellina and Danilo Garzotto; October 11th, 1986, in W-SW Face (known as Passage Corona): Giuseppe Corona, Venanzio Defey and Grégoire Comé; September 09th, 1875, in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Gelato Loch.
S Spur-Wall of Little Emilius and W Ridge: Osvaldo Cardellina; October 13th, 1968, in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Frozen Loch.
S-SW Buttress and West Ridge: Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; August 04th, 1974; in ascent crossing from Arbolle/Trident of Comboé/Points of Gelato Lake/Mount Ròss of Comboé.
W Wall of Mont Ròss of Comboé and W Ridge: June 06th, 1999; in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Plan Valé.
NW Crest of Mont Ròss of Comboé and W Ridge: Abbot Joseph Maria Henry and Grégoire Comé; September 16/17th, 1902, in descent from Summit to Little Emilius (16th) and ascent from Carrel Pass to Little Emilius (17th).
First Winter: Nerino Gobbo; Winter 1940/1, in ascent from Pila to Carrel Hill or Ròss Pass?.
NW Crest of Mount Ròss and W Ridge (First Integral on the thread Route from Nona's Becca): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; August 01th, 1976, in day from Pila/Becca of Nona/Carrel Hill/Emilius' W-NW Ridge.
N Face of Mont Ròss of Comboé and W Ridge: Abbot Joseph Maria Henry and Grégoire Comé; September 17th, 1902, in descent from Summit Mount Ròss to Western Arpisson Glacier and Carrel Hill.
N Face of Little Emilius and W Ridge: Giovan Battista Devalle, Ercole Daniele with Mountain Guides Alessandro Pession and Luigi Bich; August 30th, 1897, in ascent from Arpisson's Alpage and Western Arpisson Glacier.
N Face of Emilius and W Ridge ("Spirito Libero" Route): Ezio Marlier; November 18/9th, 2006, in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Western Arpisson's Glacier.
N Face of Emilius Western Couloir and W Ridge (Cardellina Route): Osvaldo Cardellina; August 09th, 1998, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill.
N Face of Emilius and W Ridge (West Pillar or Quendoz-Trevisan Route): Renato Quendoz and Giuseppe "Pino" Trevisan; September 27th, 1970, in ascent from Carrel Hill. Route dedicated to Ilario Antonio Garzotto and Gianni Junod
First Winter: Alberto Chéraz and Corrado Framarin; December 30/31th, 1984, in ascent from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/West Arpisson's Glacier.
N Face of Emilius Central Couloir and W Ridge (Falcoz-Mila Route): Anselme "Ansel" Falcoz and Massimo Mila; Summer about 1940, in ascent from Carrel Hill.
N Face of Emilius, East Pillar and W Ridge (Mixed Route by Ourlaz-Tosana): Giulio Adolfo "Dulo" Ourlaz and Emanuele Tosana; Autumn 1942, in ascent from Carrel Hill.
N Face of Emilius and N Edge (East Pillar and Diagonal or Crétier-Binel-Chabod Route): Amilcare Crétier, Lino Binel and Renato Chabod; August 16th, 1926, in ascent from Peckoz Shelter near Carrel Hill and Western Arpisson Glacier .
N Face of Emilius and W Ridge (East Pillar or Crétier-Binel Route): August 21th, 1927, in ascent from Peckoz Shelter near Carrel Hill and West Arpisson Glacier.
N Wall of Emilius (Direct Route Cardellina-Ferronato): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; August 31th, 1980, in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Western Arpisson's Glacier.
N Wall of Emilius ("Superdirect" Cardellina-Ferronato; Casalegno-Castellan Route): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; Alessandro "Lupetto" Casalegno and Maurizio Castellan; July 28th, 1984, in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/Western Arpisson's Glacier.
N Wall and N Edge ("Mammellone route" – "Great Breast" and N Edge, terminal part from Black Triangle, new route): Giulio Adolfo Ourlaz "Dulo" and Emanuele Tosana; April 1942, from Pila/Carrel Pass & Peckoz Old Shelter/Western and Eastern Glaciers.
N Face of Emilius and N Edge ("Couloir Fantasma"-"Phantom Couloir" Cambiolo-Sartore Route): Aldo Cambiolo and Pierluigi Sartore; June 17th, 1990, from Federigo Zullo Bivouac/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers.
N-NW Face of Black Triangle ("Senza Parole/Bocconi Amari" Route): Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier; October 25/26th, 2006, from Federigo Bivouac and two Arpisson's Glaciers.
N Wall of Black Triangle (Bozzetti/Rosset Route): Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti and Pietro "Piero" Rosset; August 1960 (first 100/10 metres) and September 10/11th, 1960, from Comboé/Carrel Hil/Eastern and Western Arpisson's Glaciers..
N Wall of Black Triangle (Direct Cambiolo-Vittorangeli Route): Aldo Cambiolo e Roberta Vittorangeli August 01th, 1990, in ascent from Federigo Bivouac/Eastern/Western Arpisson' Glaciers.
NE Crest and N Edge or said as "Three Curates Crest": Abbots George "Louis" Bonin, Pantaléon Bovet, Joseph Maria Henry and Nino Tofani; August 02th, 1906, from Les Laures ("Lores") Baron Peckoz Gamekeeper Shelter and Blantsette Glacier and Carving.
First Winter: Pietro "Piero" Rosset and Franco Garda; February 1949, in ascent and in day from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/two Arpisson's Glaciers/Testa Blantsette and Blantsette's Carving.
NE Crest and N Edge (First Integral on the thread Route): Osvaldo Cardellina and Camillo Roberto Ferronato; August 08th, 1976, in day from Pila/Carrel Hill/two Arpisson's Glaciers/Testa and Carving Blantsette.
NE Crest, N Edge and E Wall (Bozzetti Route): Angelo "Angelino" Bozzetti; Summer 1958, in ascent from Pila/Comboé/Carrel Hill/two Arpisson's Glaciers/Testa Blantsette and Carving.
E Wall to Right (Quendoz-Garzotto Route): Renato Quendoz and Ilario Antonio Garzotto; July 18th, 1969, in ascent from Ménabreaz Refuge/Blansette Glacier.
E Wall Central Route and N Edge (Matteotti Route): Guido Matteotti; September 30th, 1971, in ascent from Ménabreaz Refuge/Blansette Glacier.
E Wall Central Route (Gervasutti-Chabod Route): Giusto Gervasutti and Renato Chabod; June 26th, 1935, in ascent from Les Laures Baron Peckoz Gamekeeper Shelter and Blantsette Glacier.
First Winter: Abele Blanc and Carlo Lucianaz; Winter January 01/02th, 1989, from Ménabreaz Shelter/Blantsette Glacier.
E Wall Central (Direct Route Zulian Route): Giovanni Matteo, but said as "Agostino", Zulian; September 05th, 1961, in ascent from Ernesto Ménabreaz Refuge/Blantsette Glacier.
E Wall (Left Donzel Route): Ezio Donzel; August 16th, 1975, in ascent from Les Laures-Ménabreaz/Blantsette Glacier.
E Crest or said as "of Brissogne Mountaineers": Abbot Joseph Maria Henry and Grégoire Comé; September 16th, 1902, in descent from Summit and in ascent.
SE Face: Osvaldo Cardellina; August 06th, 1988, in ascent from Pila/Arbolle/Gelato Lake e traverse Three Capuchins Pass to Icy Loch at The Laures. |