A.W. Leading up

A.W. Leading up "The Nose" A.K.A. "Right to Flight" - A Mt. Mag Classic. This Route is best done in two pitches , allowing for great views and less rope drag on the huge roof above.


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hgrapid - Mar 23, 2005 10:46 pm - Voted 10/10

Great Shot. Can I ask for additional info?

I maintain the Mount Magazine page. Can you give me more information about this route? Where is the starting point? How long does it take, etc.?

It would really help the page. Thanks!


cagedalpinist - Mar 27, 2005 5:22 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Great Shot. Can I ask for additional info?

"Right to Flight" A.K.A. "The Nose" is a 5.9 on the south face of Mt. Magazine. It starts in a crack about 40 feet west of a route called "Cruise Control" (5.7.) There is a 3rd class from the trail that leads to the ledge above "Cruise Control" and you can rap down from the anchors there. Another way to find this route is to go past the 3rd class walkdown, continuing east along the trail, look for a prominent roof that helps to form a large chimney-like area. I will post another picture looking down from this point...

The route is typically done in two pitches to avoid rope drag on the upper pitch. There is a cave about 60 ft. up and the route continues another 30 ft. or so to the topout. The crux of the route is pulling the large roof in the upper section. Until that point, it climbs like a 5.6-5.7. Some people only do this easier pitch, but that is a true waste! The most beautiful part is the top. There is endless pro on this route, making it a great classic that can be well protected. This route can be easily done in about 45 minutes (both climbers at the top)

Hope that helps!



hgrapid - Mar 27, 2005 6:44 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: Great Shot. Can I ask for additional info?

Ok, I will put it on the page.

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