See M and N Denyer's post below. I was with them in 2003 and finally was able to come back 13 years later and do the Peregrine Traverse with Thundercloud. We were the first ones on the rock this day and only one other party followed us. Easy climbing but a bit runout in sections. Rock was more grippy than I expected, being volcanic. Very fun. Perfect weather.
went up the easy way, having rented the lookout for the weekend. Started Friday in the rain and the weather slowly cleared and chilled. We awoke Sunday morning to completely clear skies, freezing temps, & with the surrounding valleys filled with fog and hoar frost. Neat experience, cool location. We were the final renters of the 2014 season.
Group of four on the Peregrin. Securing reservations to stay in the lookout is The Way to do this climb. Finish up and head on into the lookout to get a cold drink from the fridge. Outstanding!
linked Peregrine to Eagles... easy and quite fun with good exposure.
Fun route in the Fall. We have been on it the last three weekends. Last weekend climbed Maltese Falcon, finishing on the Peregrine Traverse. The only comment I would add to the last persons post on this climber's log is that there is a lot of opportunity to place gear on the Traverse and not a lot of reason for more bolts. The climber's trail in is a little hard to follow in several places near the start where trees have fallen but we were able to pick it back up with a little effort. Someone has signed the register on the Peregrine Traverse every weekend for the last couple months, it doesn't seem to have been too much of a diversion.
Uhh... Do not trust the directions to find the climbers trail on the main page. First off... there is no "yellow surveyor's tape" anymore. Found some orange surveyors tape, assumed that that was the trail. Walked off the road at that point. Then once off the road, after scouting for where the surveyors tape was supposed to lead for about 10 minutes and not finding anymore tags, we decided to go tromping through the forest. It took us an hour and a half to find it. Turns out we were an apron and a gulley below where the route starts. Once making it to the route however, the climbing was phenomenal. A few problems with the route, lack of bolting in some parts, leading to run outs of 70+ feet, however, those points are 5.0/class 4 which isn't difficult, but definitely adds a mental factor. It should be noted in the actual peregine traverse section on this site that the anchors on the last pitch are covered over by a tree and about 20 feet away from the top of the pitch, making it hard to access, belaying from the tree is much easier. Another thing that needs to be added to the page is the descent of the last pitch. Once you get the final rap station, make sure, especially if you are using a 50m rope to: 1. tie a knot in it and 2. rap down about 20 feet and work your way right towards a tree, or else you will be stuck on the side of a cliff with no way down. Another problem is the start of the last pitch. The guide says belay off a tree, however, there are fresh bolts there with rap hangers. One major problem here is getting to this belay station is highly UNSAFE, and i mean, Severely. I ballzed to it, however one slip in the loose dirt and your going off a fifty foot cliff. I had to set up an anchor for my partner just to climb down over a ledge to get to this sketchy area, and then rope him in for the next 5 feet. Another thing that should be noted is that the ninth pitch should have some rap hangers or something to get down into the "jungle" unless if you plan on sacking up and doing some ballzy class four 600ft fall awesomeness... Haha it was fun. Overall, great climb, probably gonna go back and solo this biotch in the next month. Jigga Jigga Yeah....
I took the easy route to the fire lookout. I parked at the TH and hiked the nice trail to the top. Cloudy day so the views were not great. It is less than .5 mile and about 350ft of EG on the trail.
Second ascent of the Peregrine Traverse for me, first time for Bobbie, Sean and David. Only the third time rock climbing for Sean. Took us about four and a half hours, not too bad for two rope teams. Nice day, a little hot but better than last years climb.
Terrific route! Definitely worth the hike in.
I'll call our climb a "success" since we got to the register, but we bypassed the chimney pitch. Climbed with Ted from Grants Pass. Slower than RPC, we took a leisurely 8 hours including breaks.
This is one of those routes that always seems to give you a great hold when you really need one - be patient and keep looking. Exposed virtually from the first pitch, with sustained climbing. A lot of lichen, as you'd expect in the Oregon backcountry, but not excessive. Overall the route has nice aesthetics. And ditto what M and N said about the bolts; we did need a few cams here and there, but a light rack is plenty adequate.
Being the middle of August on a south-facing route, it's no surprise it got a little toasty... especially for my little piggies, encased as they were in thick black rubber. We both carried and finished 2 full liters of water. The upside is that climbing in August means Blackberry Porter is on-tap at Wild River when you get back to Grants Pass.
Climbed this fun route on a perfect sunny day with Jim . The decision to change our plans from Prusik Peak in the Echantments to southern Oregon turned out to be a good one. Was surprised to see quite a few people on the same route. Ran into fellow SPers Mark and Natasha and shared the summit where we exchanged stories and beta from our summer trips.
Fun climb on a great October day! Rock was surprisingly good, and there were enough bolts that hardly any gear was necessary. Definitely more exploration to be done in this area ...
We first scouted/climbed at Acker Rock in September of 2003. Although we intended to climb the Peregrine Traverse route, hot temperatures and a large Access Fund party (who was rebolting the route) kept us off. Many thanks to the Access Fund for rebolting the entire route!! All the anchor stations are equipped with two new, beefy bolts.
After reading Radek's posting, Mark and I decided to take advantage of the promise of dry weather down south this past weekend. We were not disappointed and we were not alone. We met two other parties that had been motivated by Radek's posting--Aaron from Ashland, Eric from Portland and Jim (jtschanz) and Haydar--both from Portland. The weather was gorgeous--mid 70's and sunny. We really enjoyed the climb--nice exposure and great views on surprisingly solid rock for Oregon. A very enjoyable day!
We drove out from Portland Friday night after work. Slept in truck at TH. Hiked in at 8 on Saturday expecting a full day of climbing.......the hike in took about 1 hour, the climb took us ~3+ hours at a leisurely pace (--> 150 photos shot)...descent took another hour. We thought about doing something else on the formation but then we remembered that we had family coming to town on Sunday am....headed back to PDX instead.