Advice for Young Alpinist

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Created On: Aug 22, 2016
Last Edited On: Aug 22, 2016

Hello everyone! My name is Gabe and I've been climbing seriously for just over 2 years now. I work at a rock climbing gym and I climb about a 5.12a/b indoors and 5.10b/c outdoors. I've only ice climbed twice before in my life, but I have a decent amount of experience in mountaineering and mixed climbing. I'm 17 years old, and I just climbed the Matterhorn a few days ago. My friend and I were wondering what our next trip should be, so I figured I'd post something here! 


We both decided we don't have nearly enough experience to even attempt the Eiger (even with a guide), but we are looking for a technical "alpine" climb. We've been working for a while, so we have enough money to travel. We were thinking about possibly attempting Mont Blanc, but we'd likely need a guide because neither of us are experienced in crevasse rescue. We don't think we have enough money for Denali, but it's something we'd love to try one day. We are both in extremely good physical condition (I made it up the Matterhorn in under 2 hours and 45 minutes). 


We're considering Mount Rainier, but we aren't sure we are ready for a mountain like that without a guide. How dangerous are the easiest routes (even disappointment cleaver)? We have experience camping in extreme conditions and we know how to travel on glaciers carefully. The only thing we feel like we'd need to worry about on one of the easiest routes  are crevasses and obviously bad weather. We both really want to climb Liberty Ridge, but realize that we would need a guide and that even then it's extremely dangerous. 


Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on where we should plan our next climb? Preferably something that is technically challenging but that has enough information out there so that we could climb it without a guide. If there is a mountain that sounds like it'd be right up our alley, but we'd need a guide, I'd still love to hear the suggestion. Thank you so much. 

Advice for Young Alpinist

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