Aig. Blanche de Peuterey -... : Photos, Diagrams & Topos : SummitPost

Comments

Diego Sahagún - Mar 25, 2002 12:04 pm - Hasn't voted

Some information

Can you say us the angle of climb? Did you need ice screws for climbing that slope? Thanks.

Bernhard Sauer - Mar 25, 2002 2:16 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Some information

Hi Diego,

the average angle of this specific north face route we did (Chabod/Grivel) is according to the guide book

a) in the first part: 50 degrees

b.) in the middle section: 45 degrees and

c) in the upper part: 55 degrees.

We had a short overhanging and vertical part of about 30 to 45 feet high where we had to cross a big crevasse a the key section of the ice climb.

If you take my picture as a reference it would lead to a wrong conclusion; it is a bit steeper than one would expect.

However, we had excellent conditions and didn´t use neither ice srews nor any other belay - it was just not necessary.

Regards,

Bernhard

Bernhard Sauer - Mar 25, 2002 2:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Some information

Hi Diego,

the average angle of this specific north face route we did (Chabod/Grivel) is according to the guide book

a) in the first part: 50 degrees

b.) in the middle section: 45 degrees and

c) in the upper part: 55 degrees.

We had a short overhanging and vertical part of about 30 to 45 feet high where we had to cross a big crevasse at the key section of the ice climb.

If you take my picture as a reference it would lead to a wrong conclusion; it is a bit steeper than one would expect.

However, we had excellent conditions and didn´t use neither ice srews nor any other belay - it was just not necessary.

Regards,

Bernhard