Very windy day, but beautiful route. We were the only ones. Ending was different, we climbedNW of the last ridge which was interesting, especially wearing a large pack with 2 pairs of snowshoes :-)
It was an easy nice climb in variable weather conditions. It took to us about 3 hours because of traffic.
The Midi-Plan is an excellent route on snow and rock, PD, we did it there and back in quite a fierce storm, careful navigation required on the broader bit of the ridge near the Midi due to a real white out, not just a snowstorm.
The Cosmiques arete is quite a cheesy climb, it's cheesy alpinism and the climbing isn't that great either, dusty rock, crowds and crap moves. I'd save this one for a good snowstorm, make sure it's not an electrical storm though! As a snowed up rock route it would be great.
Cosmiques Arete -- March 21, 2003 -- Climbed with Juan Valderrama after taking an early morning cable car. Really fun climb! Since Juan had climbed the route already, he was nice enough to let me lead the most interesting pitches. We were looking forward to a nice lunch at the end of the climb, but when we got to the top station, we realized that we had both forgotten to bring any money!
Cosmiques Spur (Rebuffat-Pierre) -- June 3, 2005 -- Climbed with Philippe Gerschel on a very hot day in Chamonix. Very sustained climbing at UIAA IV on steep rock. We used three moves of aid (with etriers) to pass the crux roof, making the route V A1. Very solid rappel anchors (bolts) allowed us to return quickly to our packs at the bottom of the route. The snow on the way back to the Aig du Midi was incredibly soft. We took about 3 hours for the route.
Climbed it 2 times. Great conditions in summer 2001 and 2002. Route does not reach the summit, but begins at the Cabane du Cosmique and end at the lift station Aguille du Midi
Climbing along with Jesús this beutiful route.
fine alternative to the rebuffat on midi proper, if that one is too crowded. 5.8 and a little more adventurous (no fixed anchors in '88).
probably most popular rock route in the entire mont blanc massif. super solid multi pitch 5.9 with outstanding climbing. only practical way to beat the crowds is to do it in may or so followed by a ski descent of vallee blanche.
fine mixed route in the classic idiom. big climb, thousands of feet of technical ground. about 5.7 with some very steep ice options up top (or the classic rebuffat aid rognon, didn't do). lift station on summit, runs year round. really good bivy spots after rock section.
fun beginner route. extremely crowded. m twight recommends as foul weather training climb. safe and non commital
Climbed the upper ridge with Marco and Alberto on the morning of the 14th then climbed the lower ridge back to the Refuge on the afternoon of the 15th after climbing the Tacul Glacier route. Excellent stuff. Wonderful weather on the Midi Glacier plain. Loved the fixed, hand-tied etrier on the 5.10 crux pitch... I guess that makes it 5.7 A1 YDS, no?
After a snowy night in a tent on the glacier we were lucky enough to have 2 or 3 hours of acceptable weather to climb this short but superb route
A great climb in rotten conditions: there had been snow fall that morning and visibility was down to 15 metres. As a result it took a long time but it was worth it. Slept in the Cable-car station (great altitude training!)
Great little mixed route. Good into for one wanting to try their hand at mixed climbing. Too bad the route is so short.
Climbed with a large group of beginners and two guides. The purpose was initiation to mountaineering, so we did it the long and slow way, all the way from Montenvers. After two days walking it was strange to meet all the tourists that arrive by cable car.
Fun and easy ice+snow plod.
Left from the Italian side of the lifts and marched across the valley in an almost total whiteout after a foot and a half of snow had fallen the following night. The glacier was very alive that day. The ridge was fairly treacherous on the way to the Midi given the new snow.
This is one of the best routes I have done, together with the Cabeza de Condor in Bolivia and the Nevado de Toluca in Mexico.
March 21, 2003: repeated the ridge with Thomas J. Fralich. Still one of my favorite routes
tough climb because we had a lot of fresh snow...took us a full day...but the easiest way back - cable car from the top...highly recommended climb
This is a real beauty! One of the most beautiful rock routes in the aiguilles around Chamonix. Must do! Try to avoid the main season because of the crowd.
Ideal route to learn your business. Mostly overcrowded. Atmosphere because of the beautiful view into the Chamonix valley.