Aiguille Noire

The descent route from Aiguille Noire de Peuterey. Near pt. 3519m are shown two of the several possible variants - the lower is the one normally used in descent, but the higher one may be simpler to follow in bad visibility.

A = Pt. 3519m

B = shoulder 3374m

C = the "twin gendarmes", 3291m. The first must be turned the S side (Fauteuil des Allemands), the second on the N side (Brenva)

D = chimney-dihedral of the higher variant

E = the "square gendarme", should be used as reference point, as the final descent towards the Fauteuil begins here

F = rounded, shallow spur dividing the main "amphitheatre" below the summit from a secondary "bowl" that allows access to the East ridge

G = chimney-dihedral of the lower variant

H = second shallow spur (important reference point)

I = slabby couloir

1 = Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, main summit (3773m)

2 = Pt. Bich (3743m) - named after Valtournenche guide Edoardo Bich

3 = Pt. Ottoz (3586m) - named after Courmayeur guide Arturo Ottoz, one of the strongest climber in the MB area in mid-XX century (amongst his many climbs, he did the first complete traverse of the Aiguilles de Chamonix)

4 = Pt. Brendel (3498m) - named after Karl Brendel, one of the first ascensionists of the South Ridge

5 = Pt. Welzenbach (3355m) - named after Willo Welzenbach, famous German climber of the pre-WWII era, and the inventor of the first official climbing grading scale. He died in the 1934 Nanga Parbat disaster.

6 = Pt. Bifida (3215m) - "bifida"= two headed

7 = Pic Gamba (3067m) - named after Cesare Gamba, an interesting figure of entrepreneur and a prolific climber of the beginning of XX° century.

(Original picture by Olivier Masselot)


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