http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6Zqp_a4cSY&feature=related Check out this video. Martin Volken obviously makes money guiding, but his pack loadout is spot on for climbs in the conus...just adjust the rack and rope for the route chosen.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 22, 2012 2:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Good find
I know Martin, his shop is in the next town over from where I live. I buy my AT gear from him. I am struck by how similar our kits are, down to the exact model and size of pack, use of one bladder and one bottle, etc.
I've found "The Mountaineering Handbook" by Craig Connally to be an excellent extended discussion of all the points presented in this article, as well as a "how to" to accompany Twight's book...It reaches almost identical conclusions.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 3:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Thanks EB. That was dense, interesting, and very very useful. Your generosity abounds, my friend- cheers!
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 8:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Incredible
Thanks for the kind words. I'm not sure I am so generous, just bored.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 9:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.
Nice tight pack. I really like Black Diamond packs, I use the Shadow 45L in many of my photos.
You don't want me doing your calculus homework, I barely passed the bare minimum in college, opting for more statistics instead. My wife on the other hand scored the highest math SAT score in the country when she took it at 15. She took college calculus in 5th grade and can do triple integrals in her head.
I could barely fit that stuff in my 45 l pack, which makes me wonder: what temps was that sleeping bag supposed to deal with?
ExcitableBoy - Jan 24, 2012 12:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.
Western Mountaineering Apache Super Dryloft rated to +15, but I have used in in far colder temps (winter summits of Rainier, Alaska's Mt Hunter and Ruth Gorge in early May. It weighs 2lbs 3oz. I don't use a stuff sack with it, I just mash it down into the very bottom of the pack, put heavy stuff on top (rack, stove kit).
Yes, I was referring to your pic. 30F explains it; that would be a slightly warm summer bag for me (mountain temps down to 30F are to be expected in august). Winter for me means I need a bag that allows me to sleep in -25F, and since I can't afford down, that sort of bag doesn't pack very small.
"The best way to avoid becoming an entry in ‘Accidents in North American Mountaineering’ is to limit your time spent in the danger zone." And by the danger zone, I presume you mean North America? ;-)
ExcitableBoy - Jan 24, 2012 12:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The danger zone
Good one! My provencial attitude unfortuntately shines through all my articles. Thanks for the honest vote.
Haha, yeah, just a friendly reminder that not everyone who speaks/writes/understands english is American. No hard feelings. :-)
As for the article, it's a good summary, but there are a few things here and there that I would have wanted more fully explained if hadn't read the full story elsewhere, it doesn't seem to cover *every* aspect of the game, and it doesn't tell me anything I didn't already know. If it did, it'd be amazing and earn a vote of 9/10.
I vote 10/10 for stuff that is *absolutely completely amazing*. 5/10 is "not good, not bad". So 7/10 means "this is not quite amazing, but it's clearly good stuff".
I sent you a PM regarding what I missed in my article and what needs elaboration. Also, most climbers who have been around the block once or twice do know this stuff. The articles I write are for those newer to the game.
It is possible to go lighter however. 13.5K, winter, 10F, no sleeping bag, no pad, no mittens, no bivy sac. Shovel, backpack, and a rope : )
http://www.summitpost.org/humor-is-last-to-go/701676
(not planning to make this a habit haha)
I 100% agree that it is important to bring a sleeping bag just warm enough to keep you warm in all your clothes. If you bring a winter sleeping bag and all the winter clothes to keep you warm walking around camp you might as well bring a 10lb 3 person tent. I figured my bivy sac and summer bag is good enough for me on any night if I bring my down jacket. Which I will only bring for very cold winter forecast. I found a primaloft lighter jacket/down sweater combo that works very well. With this combo you can wrap your feet up with the primaloft jacket and keep the down sweater on when you are sleeping. Helps the whole body to stay warm, not just the part where you wrap the down jacket.....
ExcitableBoy - Jan 27, 2012 10:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great article!
Thanks,
It is definitely possible to survive open bivouacs, and can even be a character building exercise. I figure at my age I have all the character I need though =).
alpine345 - Jan 22, 2012 2:00 pm - Voted 10/10
more infohttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6Zqp_a4cSY&feature=related Check out this video. Martin Volken obviously makes money guiding, but his pack loadout is spot on for climbs in the conus...just adjust the rack and rope for the route chosen.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 22, 2012 2:14 pm - Hasn't voted
Good findI know Martin, his shop is in the next town over from where I live. I buy my AT gear from him. I am struck by how similar our kits are, down to the exact model and size of pack, use of one bladder and one bottle, etc.
alpine345 - Jan 22, 2012 4:57 pm - Voted 10/10
yet more infoI've found "The Mountaineering Handbook" by Craig Connally to be an excellent extended discussion of all the points presented in this article, as well as a "how to" to accompany Twight's book...It reaches almost identical conclusions.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 3:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Word!Thanks!
aran - Jan 23, 2012 7:21 pm - Voted 10/10
IncredibleThanks EB. That was dense, interesting, and very very useful. Your generosity abounds, my friend- cheers!
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 8:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: IncredibleThanks for the kind words. I'm not sure I am so generous, just bored.
ExcitableBoy - Jan 23, 2012 9:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.Nice tight pack. I really like Black Diamond packs, I use the Shadow 45L in many of my photos.
You don't want me doing your calculus homework, I barely passed the bare minimum in college, opting for more statistics instead. My wife on the other hand scored the highest math SAT score in the country when she took it at 15. She took college calculus in 5th grade and can do triple integrals in her head.
guhj - Jan 24, 2012 7:07 am - Voted 9/10
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.I could barely fit that stuff in my 45 l pack, which makes me wonder: what temps was that sleeping bag supposed to deal with?
ExcitableBoy - Jan 24, 2012 12:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.Western Mountaineering Apache Super Dryloft rated to +15, but I have used in in far colder temps (winter summits of Rainier, Alaska's Mt Hunter and Ruth Gorge in early May. It weighs 2lbs 3oz. I don't use a stuff sack with it, I just mash it down into the very bottom of the pack, put heavy stuff on top (rack, stove kit).
guhj - Feb 2, 2012 9:42 am - Voted 9/10
Re: Same can be said for ski touring.Yes, I was referring to your pic. 30F explains it; that would be a slightly warm summer bag for me (mountain temps down to 30F are to be expected in august). Winter for me means I need a bag that allows me to sleep in -25F, and since I can't afford down, that sort of bag doesn't pack very small.
guhj - Jan 24, 2012 7:05 am - Voted 9/10
The danger zone"The best way to avoid becoming an entry in ‘Accidents in North American Mountaineering’ is to limit your time spent in the danger zone." And by the danger zone, I presume you mean North America? ;-)
ExcitableBoy - Jan 24, 2012 12:10 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The danger zoneGood one! My provencial attitude unfortuntately shines through all my articles. Thanks for the honest vote.
guhj - Feb 2, 2012 10:37 am - Voted 9/10
Re: The danger zoneHaha, yeah, just a friendly reminder that not everyone who speaks/writes/understands english is American. No hard feelings. :-)
As for the article, it's a good summary, but there are a few things here and there that I would have wanted more fully explained if hadn't read the full story elsewhere, it doesn't seem to cover *every* aspect of the game, and it doesn't tell me anything I didn't already know. If it did, it'd be amazing and earn a vote of 9/10.
I vote 10/10 for stuff that is *absolutely completely amazing*. 5/10 is "not good, not bad". So 7/10 means "this is not quite amazing, but it's clearly good stuff".
ExcitableBoy - Feb 2, 2012 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: The danger zoneI sent you a PM regarding what I missed in my article and what needs elaboration. Also, most climbers who have been around the block once or twice do know this stuff. The articles I write are for those newer to the game.
Vitaliy M. - Jan 27, 2012 4:13 pm - Voted 10/10
Great article!It is possible to go lighter however. 13.5K, winter, 10F, no sleeping bag, no pad, no mittens, no bivy sac. Shovel, backpack, and a rope : )
http://www.summitpost.org/humor-is-last-to-go/701676
(not planning to make this a habit haha)
I 100% agree that it is important to bring a sleeping bag just warm enough to keep you warm in all your clothes. If you bring a winter sleeping bag and all the winter clothes to keep you warm walking around camp you might as well bring a 10lb 3 person tent. I figured my bivy sac and summer bag is good enough for me on any night if I bring my down jacket. Which I will only bring for very cold winter forecast. I found a primaloft lighter jacket/down sweater combo that works very well. With this combo you can wrap your feet up with the primaloft jacket and keep the down sweater on when you are sleeping. Helps the whole body to stay warm, not just the part where you wrap the down jacket.....
ExcitableBoy - Jan 27, 2012 10:18 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great article!Thanks,
It is definitely possible to survive open bivouacs, and can even be a character building exercise. I figure at my age I have all the character I need though =).
Noondueler - Jan 30, 2012 3:25 pm - Voted 10/10
MessnerKammerlander and Habler would be good people to consult. Unfortunately Dougal Haston and Ernhard Loraton were killed in the mountains.
alpine345 - Feb 17, 2012 2:30 pm - Voted 10/10
presto-changoEB, when I first read this it was a little bony but it's fleshed out nicely now, so I bumped the vote. Good work!
ExcitableBoy - Feb 17, 2012 3:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: presto-changoThanks, guhj and I had a good exchange of ideas and I updated it to reflect his suggestions.