American Ninja, 5.11

Rated as 5.10+ in Handren's guide, I concur with others that the crux is more like 5.11, I fell on it and lost a good chuck of knuckle skin. Had no beta, would have helped a ton if I tackled it as a stemming problem to begin with versus wasting energy trying to make it a finger pocket climb at the crux. Most moderate climbers won't have that kind of finger strength. A strenuous stem for several meters in the middle. Pro is PG 13 at best, some brassies in the bottom of those corner pockets is the best you have. Maybe a tri cam works. The crux is harder than Out of Control, but Out of Control is more sustained and by far the better route.