Matt Lemke - Dec 8, 2016 11:56 pm - Hasn't voted
Looks so much different...than when I climbed it in 2014! So much less glacier
rgg - Dec 9, 2016 9:23 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Looks so much different...It's also very different from what I remember from 2011. In fact, it's so different that I can't even say where on the mountain this photo was taken. But I like a good puzzle, so let's figure this out.
The title "approach to Toclljararu summit" can be interpreted in two ways. My first thought is that this is shortly before the final steep section below the summit, meaning it's at around 5900 m or higher. However, in 2011 that looked so much different, I can hardly believe it's changed so much. But maybe it has.
My second interpretation is that this is at the base of the northwest ridge. Again, very different from what I remember from 2011, but in this case that can easily be explained because, over time, the best place to gain access to the ridge changes a lot. However... almost every climbing party starts in the early hours and gets on the ridge in darkness. That rules out this option.
So, if it's not right below the summit and not at the base of the ridge, where could this be? It's got to be somewhere on the ridge itself. And I'm guessing that it's probably closer to the summit than to the base of the ridge, but I can't narrow it down any more than that.
NatureGirl - Dec 9, 2016 9:40 am - Hasn't voted
good guessit's pretty close to the summit ... the last merely "flat" section on the normal route before reaching the last steep part to the summit. it might be a bit below 5900 m, because the abseiling part from the summit is 1 rope length, the summit even 20 m higher than the belay station and on the pic we still have some m to ascent for getting to the base.
rgg - Dec 9, 2016 10:18 am - Voted 10/10
Re: good guessThanks for your explanation. And even though it looks so very different compared to 2011, reading about Toclla brings back some fine memories.
NatureGirl - Dec 9, 2016 10:19 am - Hasn't voted
Re: good guessit's a really great mountain, can confirm 100 % what you are saying ;)
Matt Lemke - Dec 10, 2016 8:14 pm - Hasn't voted
wowThe amount this mountain has changed in just the past TWO years is astounding
See my photo from a similar spot in 2014 here:
http://images.summitpost.org/original/907032.JPG
rgg - Dec 11, 2016 7:53 am - Voted 10/10
Re: wowThat photo looks a lot like how I remember it from 2011: no problem with the bergschrund at all (though I think that the top section was steeper then than it appears to be in 2014).
However, from other photos and trip reports over time, conditions can change rapidly and dramatically from one year to the next. It's impossible to predict what will happen in 2017, but who knows, maybe it will be easy again.
NatureGirl - Dec 11, 2016 8:32 am - Hasn't voted
incrediblethat's a huge change ... cannot even imagine that this shall be the same mountain, but my boyfriend summited also in 2014 and said it was much easier by then. the worst thing for me was the crevasse directly below the summit, just a few m beyond the highest point ... I did not cross that one.
Matt Lemke - Dec 11, 2016 10:38 am - Hasn't voted
Re: incredibleCrevasse just below the summit?? There was no such thing in 2014 lol
NatureGirl - Dec 11, 2016 10:45 am - Hasn't voted
new in 2016yeah, this was new in 2016 ... just had a look at 2014 pics but did not find one out of similar perspective. just abseiling from the top seemed to be pretty different ...
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