Artsivistsveri

Overview

Artsivistsveri (Eagle Peak in the local Mokheve dialect) rises above the villages of Stepantsminda and Gergeti just across the river valley north of the Gergeti Monastery. Little information existed about climbs of the peak, and local guide services had no information about it, as it is not a large or technical enough peak for them to bother guiding any groups up. However, a cairn exists on the saddle between Artsivistsveri and Point 9087, and there is a mystery contraption on the middle slopes of the peak, so it has seen human visitation, and is named on a couple maps.

For hardcore climbers and hikers from the Rockies or Alps it isn't much to bother with, but for climbers from the Cascades or flatter regions of the world, it can serve as a useful training hike to help prep for larger climbs in the area, as it's a short, quick hike and scramble with stellar views in every direction on a good weather day.

Getting There

From Tbilisi, either take a marshrutka or shared taxi from the Didube Metro Station to Kazbegi (taxi drivers heading that way may accost you as soon as you get off the metro, or ask anyone out in the parking area "Sad aris Kazbegi marshrutka?" and someone will point you in the right direction). Marshrutkas as of September 2023 are 15 lari per person (about $5, give or take. Cash only, so find an ATM and withdraw in lari), and shared taxis vary by driver, but expect to pay about 40 lari per person (about $15, give or take) for a ride up in a BMW. The marshrutka is cheaper, but bumpier and a bit slower. Ride takes about 3 hours. Shared taxi is much smoother, but you will be white knuckling it the whole way up. Expect that ride to be about 1.5-2 hours, depending on how recently the driver has seen a Fast & Furious movie. 

You can rent a car and drive yourself up, but if you come from Western Europe, Scandinavia, the UK, or most of the USA/ Canada or Australia or New Zealand, don't do this. You are not prepared for Georgian roads. The physical condition of the roads is up to EU standards now (for the most part. Some sections are being actively renovated, so they will be soon), but other drivers, occasional cattle/ sheep, and unpredictable weather will make this a risky gambit for anyone accustomed to very calm and orderly roads. So this option is available, but not advised.

There are also tourist busses that make trips up to Stepantsminda, but I have never taken one, so I have no idea what the costs or experience are like. Anyone who has, go ahead and submit an Additional Comment and I'll append that info to this section.

All modes of transportation will drop you off in the same spot, a mixed taxi/bus/marshrutka parking zone in downtown Stepantsminda.

Route

From the Gergeti village, follow the Stepantsminda-Sameba Road to the north-bearing branch that heads toward the Kazbegi Zipline. Follow that paved road over the hill and down toward the river. When you pass the sharp bend in the road, the obvious dirt road branches off north and crosses the small river on a bridge. Cross the bridge, and follow the dirt road to the foot of a large cliff band above some farm plots. Wind your way between the farm plots to a small sherpherd's path at the base of the ridge slopes. Follow it west up the steep grass slope through what is almost a col until you reach the small plateau at the top of the cliffs.

From the plateau, turn right and find a way over or around the stone walls, and try to find an old shepherd's path that cuts up between the rocky outcrops. The talus fields along the slopes can provide slightly easier travel when dry, but when damp, the black lichen is oily and slippery. 

Follow the on-again-off-again sherpherd's path up to gentle open slopes atop the main ridgeline, and then continue west following the easiest line, and occasional clear bootpath toward the mysterious metal contraption on a narrow ridge below the main slopes of Artsivistsveri. From this mystery gizmo, follow the easiest line upslope toward the summit crags. When wet, the duff on the slopes is slippery and impossible to avoid. Tread carefully.

It's slightly unclear which of the crags is the highest, so tag all of them just be to safe. This can also be combined with the nearby Point 9087 that's a short distance away. 

Return via same route. 

Red Tape

No red tape. The area is a bit of a free-for-all. Just pack all messes out with you, and be considerate of the farmer/family properties you'll be hiking through/near to access the peak.

When to Climb

Since the Georgian Military Road/ E117 is open year-round with only brief closures due to snowfall, this peak can be done year-round. Just be mindful of avalanche hazards on some of the slopes, and be prepared for unpredictable weather changes. Mkinvartsveri is notorious for chaotic weather, and this being a sub-peak off an east-trending ridge from the main mountain, the same weather forecasts apply here.

Camping

As the low part of the approach crosses a couple farm plot areas, camping near the starting point of the climb is not recommended. The peak is so close to the village that staying at any guest house, hostel, or hotel is the easiest option, since it's a relatively short walk to the access road and the peak, and it can be done round trip in good conditions in 5+ hours.

For those seeking more solitude, if the weather is decent, the slopes and ridge area above the farm areas have lots of open grassy areas to pitch a tent, and on clear days offer majestic views of Mkinvartsveri, Kuro, Angel Peak, and more. Be warned that heavy wet weather rolls in from the Caspian/Chechnya frequently and fast, so pack all-weather gear for adventures in this area.

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