Lots of snow for summer conditions, 13 hour round trip from the hind hut. Straightforward (if you're not bonked) but sustained climbing.
Thanks for the beer, whoever you are :)
Nurse Ratchet and I had the mountain to ourselves on a warm, dry August day. Climbed to the summit unroped in tennis shoes, ate a hot lunch and napped for an hour before breaking out the rope for the rappels.
Did not summit, bad conditions of snow, ice, weather
My father Edward Stanley, brother Bevan Stanley, and I, under the leadership of Rudi Gertsch, climbed this peak in winter conditions from the lodge at Sunburst Lake. The summit was completely socked in. The round trip took 18 hours. Since the time of this ascent the glacier has retreated and the approach route has been modified.
Retreated just above the Red Band due to stormy and windy conditions. Lots of loose rock on this route, I got hit in the face with a fist sized stone on our descent.
Second try did the trick. Summer conditions, took axe and crampons, never used.
Report with narrative and photos at www.climbingwithbob.com
We underestimated the route. The South Face is very wide and somewhat challanges your route finding habilities. We reached about 3400 m and turned aroud due to clouds and also lack of time.
3 hrs. from the lodge up to the hind hut on the 22nd.
Early start on the 23rd (4:00a.m.) under ideal conditions. Loose snow and some ice but generally dry conditions. Crampons should be brought along. Did not use them that day but 2 days prior most climbers did which gives you an idea of how things can change close to the continental divide. While its a straightforward 5.5 on a fine day one should not under estimate this mountain. The ridge is completely exposed so mistakes are unacceptable. Poor weather can make things messy cranking up the tech level several notches especially under icy conditions.
Summit in 4 hrs - less to descend. One needs to be very careful of people below when descending on this rotten heap of rock.
One of 8 unassociated groups (20 climbers) on peak, snow, ice, verglas, and a turn around just above the red band. No summit for any group that day. Will try again under drier conditions.