In 2011, the normal route was on the east face (not visible in this photo). The crux is a 60 degree headwall of almost 200m high. Until recently, it was completely covered with snow, but as conditions have been changing, by 2011 the left part of the headwall, which is the least steep and shortest way up, was mostly bare. So, we climbed a bit more to the right instead. If this development continues, perhaps at some point it would be easier to get to the high plateau from Palomani pass, south of the mountain.
Iván is thinking about all this as he looks up. At least the first part from this pass looks easy ...
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