Thanks for posting. I think it's good for the climbing community to remind us that backing off isn't bad, quitting can mean staying alive and that external pressure to complete a climb (from peers, sponsors, partners) is arbitrary and potentially dangerous. We all do what we do for our own reasons, at least, that is the hope. Keep spreading the rad.
I think all of us has a certain amount of luck, free passes, get out of jail cards or whatever in our lives and we need to be careful how hard and how often we push the edge. Don't waste that luck on too many bad decisions. It is good to know when to back off because it doesn't always come out right.
There's an old adage that goes something like "you start out climbing with a jar of luck and a jar of experience - as you climb more and more, your luck jar empties and your experience jar fills". The moral of the story - as you get older, trust your experience more than your luck.
I notice that you are still quite young. I would guess you have no kids. The decision to back off or not takes on a whole different meaning when you have children (yes, even different that wives, siblings, or parents). All the people that I've climbed with (who have kids) have said the same thing - having kids affects the level of risk you're willing to take.
Yep, 22 and very single. I climb on Mt. Washington a lot and read the death list occasionaly: http://www.mountwashington.org/about/visitor/surviving.php
One thing that stands out is the people (mostly male) aged 15-28 out number everyone else. For me personally, learning to be cautious has had a big impact on my climbing. To be safe and successful in the mountains I feel like I should know how to do anything be it M4, A2, 5.7 off widths, layering for -20F, splinting broken bones, or not burning the eggs. A big base of experience is really what separates the men from the boys. I like the example of the two jars.
...one can make in the mountains is to know when they need to back off or turn around. The mountain or the route will be there next time- you might not be.
I turned back on a few routes when the weather was getting bad or I was lazy with a late start. I hope to make good decisions in the future. Better safe than sorry!
Some of it is about rocket science! But seriously, the experience is far more valuable than the summit, going up is optional, coming back down is mandatory, trusting that little voice in your head that says "not today". It sounds like you are making good decisions as you go through life, and that is where it is at!
Congrats on a well written and thoughtful article!
Cheers;
Tim
I felt sort of bad about turning back 3 times from climbing Iron Mountain in California until I read your article. Way to be smart, even when the temptation is big just to keep going. You should talk talk to Noah, the writer of "Success and Failure, as Simple as That." He seems a bit over-zealous at this point. Great work!
I've backed off of attemtps a few times, once no more than 100m from the summit. I think your article refelcts on the decision-making process than most of us make (or fail to make)as we attempt routes and epaks.
I had a fall on American Twins a few years ago that was totally unexpected and it was on an easy piece of ridgeline that most have no problems with. I was stepping around a corner when one of my three points of contact pulled out and I headed for the promised land. I did a complete flip and only luck stopped me from going a 20 foot cliff onto some rocks (pointy ones) below while my son watched in disbelief. Ever since that I have been much more cautious and respectful of the outdoors in similar situations. I have now backed off on situations where the red flag goes up like on Round Top in California last year. Thanks for your article as it is important to be smart and safe and listen to "intuition" and common sense at times.
When I accepted an invitation to Pakistan I considered my priorities and decided they were:
1: Come home safe
2: Take a truckload of pictures
3: Have an excellent time
4: Summit
Altitude sickness kept me from #4, but I accomplished #1, 2, and 3.
There have been weekend trips where I didn't quite accomplish #2 or 3, even when I got #4, but I always came through on #1.
And while a serious injury isn't necessarily the end of the world - some people do amazing things with prosthetic limbs, after all - I'll settle for being a healthy, whole old fart.
The Defiant One - Mar 22, 2009 3:23 pm - Voted 10/10
Really enjoyed this articleThanks for posting. I think it's good for the climbing community to remind us that backing off isn't bad, quitting can mean staying alive and that external pressure to complete a climb (from peers, sponsors, partners) is arbitrary and potentially dangerous. We all do what we do for our own reasons, at least, that is the hope. Keep spreading the rad.
Bill Kerr - Mar 22, 2009 9:38 pm - Voted 10/10
LuckI think all of us has a certain amount of luck, free passes, get out of jail cards or whatever in our lives and we need to be careful how hard and how often we push the edge. Don't waste that luck on too many bad decisions. It is good to know when to back off because it doesn't always come out right.
AJones - Mar 23, 2009 3:24 pm - Voted 10/10
Luck, experience, & kidsThere's an old adage that goes something like "you start out climbing with a jar of luck and a jar of experience - as you climb more and more, your luck jar empties and your experience jar fills". The moral of the story - as you get older, trust your experience more than your luck.
I notice that you are still quite young. I would guess you have no kids. The decision to back off or not takes on a whole different meaning when you have children (yes, even different that wives, siblings, or parents). All the people that I've climbed with (who have kids) have said the same thing - having kids affects the level of risk you're willing to take.
Good article!!
Isaiah - Mar 27, 2009 1:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Luck, experience, & kidsYep, 22 and very single. I climb on Mt. Washington a lot and read the death list occasionaly: http://www.mountwashington.org/about/visitor/surviving.php
One thing that stands out is the people (mostly male) aged 15-28 out number everyone else. For me personally, learning to be cautious has had a big impact on my climbing. To be safe and successful in the mountains I feel like I should know how to do anything be it M4, A2, 5.7 off widths, layering for -20F, splinting broken bones, or not burning the eggs. A big base of experience is really what separates the men from the boys. I like the example of the two jars.
Cascade Scrambler - Mar 23, 2009 7:35 pm - Voted 10/10
The smartest decision......one can make in the mountains is to know when they need to back off or turn around. The mountain or the route will be there next time- you might not be.
Well written!
dfrancom - Mar 26, 2009 12:52 pm - Hasn't voted
YepI turned back on a few routes when the weather was getting bad or I was lazy with a late start. I hope to make good decisions in the future. Better safe than sorry!
T Sharp - Mar 28, 2009 12:59 am - Voted 10/10
Aha!Some of it is about rocket science! But seriously, the experience is far more valuable than the summit, going up is optional, coming back down is mandatory, trusting that little voice in your head that says "not today". It sounds like you are making good decisions as you go through life, and that is where it is at!
Congrats on a well written and thoughtful article!
Cheers;
Tim
TheGoat - Mar 28, 2009 7:22 pm - Voted 10/10
Great article!I felt sort of bad about turning back 3 times from climbing Iron Mountain in California until I read your article. Way to be smart, even when the temptation is big just to keep going. You should talk talk to Noah, the writer of "Success and Failure, as Simple as That." He seems a bit over-zealous at this point. Great work!
Isaiah - Mar 31, 2009 2:07 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great article!I had been thinking about writing this for a few weeks and reading his article motivated me to actually write mine.
travelingclimber - Apr 17, 2009 12:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Very good articleI've backed off of attemtps a few times, once no more than 100m from the summit. I think your article refelcts on the decision-making process than most of us make (or fail to make)as we attempt routes and epaks.
Dean - May 8, 2009 2:39 pm - Voted 10/10
Indeed !!I had a fall on American Twins a few years ago that was totally unexpected and it was on an easy piece of ridgeline that most have no problems with. I was stepping around a corner when one of my three points of contact pulled out and I headed for the promised land. I did a complete flip and only luck stopped me from going a 20 foot cliff onto some rocks (pointy ones) below while my son watched in disbelief. Ever since that I have been much more cautious and respectful of the outdoors in similar situations. I have now backed off on situations where the red flag goes up like on Round Top in California last year. Thanks for your article as it is important to be smart and safe and listen to "intuition" and common sense at times.
mtneering - Mar 8, 2013 1:58 am - Hasn't voted
ahhh good ol centralHuntington Ravine
Eric Sandbo - Mar 17, 2013 2:15 am - Hasn't voted
PrioritiesWhen I accepted an invitation to Pakistan I considered my priorities and decided they were:
1: Come home safe
2: Take a truckload of pictures
3: Have an excellent time
4: Summit
Altitude sickness kept me from #4, but I accomplished #1, 2, and 3.
There have been weekend trips where I didn't quite accomplish #2 or 3, even when I got #4, but I always came through on #1.
And while a serious injury isn't necessarily the end of the world - some people do amazing things with prosthetic limbs, after all - I'll settle for being a healthy, whole old fart.