Reading about summiting BCS I worried a lot about the head wall. In fact, that was the only great part; the slog up Cox Col was a bitch and the summit block might only be class 3, but the exposure is too much to ignore.
A sweet climb up a lovely peak! The rock is solid and the route easy to find. Can't get much better :)
Climbed with Rico.
Thought the 2nd pitch was best and the crux. Sustained 5.7 stemming, hand jams and chimneying make this the highlight. If you're a 5.8 leader you're going to want to simul-climb p3, 4 and 6-10.
Smoky NE Ridge ascent with JG. Really odd weather day with hot wind and eerie clouds. Ominous omens but we had a joyous climb and suffered no misfortune.
Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhghULqnDV4
Not as hard or scary to solo as I thought it was going to be. Fun climb!
Great day, endless boulder fields. Took the crack instead of the devious route up the head wall. Over the "Don't Tell My Wife Traverse" to the "easy chimney", took the "hard" chimney back to the crack and did a short rappel off it. Then miles of boulder hopping.
Day trip with Kurt from SMI. Still a bit of snow and perfect weather.
First class 4 route I ever did, pretty memorable with a great finish on that summit block. Descended Ulrich's.
With Robert Zeithammer.
From Dade Lake with Curt and Rick in heavy leather boots.
Repeated with Marty in 2002 from Gem Lakes.
Freeclimbed solo from Treasure Lakes with the aid of rock shoes at the summit wall/block.
Clear, no wind, views were fantastic.
Quick sidetrip via the Ulrichs Route as I made my way towards Mount Julius Caesar.
First trip June 16, 2011 as a solo dayhike from Mosquito Flat. Lots of snow (snow from 11,500 feet) but didn't need crampons, which was nice because I decided to leave them in the car. Enjoyed the headwall, wished it was a bit longer. Over to Pipsqueak Spire afterwards.
W/ Reza, Gary Stuebe and Mark Krotine
Aug 2013 - climbed N. Arête w/ Rico
The end of a traverse from Mt. Dade and Pipsqueak Spire. We actually threw a rope over the summit block and belayed from the other side. I wouldn't trust the rope to actually stay on top of the summit block on a hard fall, but it gave us some sense of security - probably not warranted. Great day with Mark and Pat.
What a dramatic summit!
A ton of fun and highly recommended.
C2C with the Gazelle. Long day with excellent conditions. Only party on the climb, although we did get passed by a soloist. Crux 5th pitch is only 5.8 (or possibly harder) if you climb it as an OW. The alternative, left side hand crack and stem, is pretty low key. Found the ridge (past ST P5) long and harder than 4th. Walked out under moonlight.
With Murad, Oleg and Marina from Mosquito Flat
Solo, awesome climb and view.