With a group of 10 people climbed the top on a beautiful sunny morning. Started from Berelskoe Seddle at 3.30 at been at the top at 7 A.M. Bad fixed rope was on the Ridge it helped much. The upper part of Delane Pass was roped also
Very lucky with the weather. Got into two days weather window and summited some hours before horrible thunderstorm. Lots of snow.
Everyday snowfalls and exceptionally cold summer season prevented many teams even from attempting the TKT Pass - the last Belukha climbing camp.
The risk of avalanche was too high and I took the decision to change plans and attempt two less high and non technical mountains - Mount Ak-Oyuk and Mount Bronia. The decision was a good one as none succeeded with Belukha climb during the following two weeks.
We were miraculously lucky with the weather. Before and after our climb the weather conditions were very difficult (snowfalls and strong wind), but we caught four perfect days and did our best. I climbed the route twice in the same day from the Berel Base camp (3500 m). First time I climbed solo to take some pictures from summit before sunrise (it took me 1 hour 45 min to climb the summit and then 50 min to descend - my personal record time). And then in the camp I was unexpectedly hired and having one hour for rest then climbed Belukha again.
The route conditions were perfect - all glacier crevices are closed because of the recent snowfalls, the trek is visible, the summit crest clear from snow (only ice and rocks)