Black Orpheus, 5.9+, IV

This is the published crux pitch, but as Radek made note, the pitch below is actually more challenging. You have 2 bolts to protect the 5.9+ move to the left (not really 5.10a as published). Some have gone right up a corner to the right of the bolts. The star marks bail gear left behind. I don't think a traverse up there makes any sense. The move left is exposed, but quite positive in my opinion. The bolts are well placed. We actually set up a hanging belay on them which can be done with 60m ropes from the long sustained crack pitch below. Black Orpheus, 5.9+,IV, Rainbow Mountain, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, October, 2007

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